SIHH 2019 - The Most Important New Releases of the Year

Oct 14, 2022by Alessandro Rossi
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The Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie in Geneva is an internationally important meeting place for the watchmaking industry and the Richemont Group's in-house exhibition. 35 prestigious brands present their products at the Geneva event, including both in-house and independent brands. The invited guests are primarily professionals who need to be impressed with the new products, trends and developments of the new year. Every year, the new releases in the art of watchmaking range from chronographs to pilot's watches, to pocket and world time watches. This means that there is always something for everyone and the fine salon is always a varied highlight of the highest quality.

This year’s Geneva Watch Salon stands out

The SIHH is one of the world's most important events for luxury watches. It is therefore important to present the manufacturers' new range in the best possible way in the elegant, exclusive ambience of the salon and to inform connoisseurs about the future of craftsmanship. For four days up until January 17, 18 well-known old hands and 17 smaller, younger brands presented their range for the new year. One thing is certain: competence and diversity were represented to the highest degree. This year, however, was the last time the Geneva Watch Salon took place in January. In 2020, like Baselworld, it will be moved to April or May - a small farewell. Below we reveal all the highlights and top topics of conversation from the SIHH 2019 - the last of its kind.

This is trend

As every year, there are new trends that you should definitely know about. Blue watches will remain popular in 2019. They have now become so established that even various shades are being thoroughly exchanged. Bronze tones have also secured a place in the range of many manufacturers. These are often complemented by green dials - a daring combination that does not go down well with everyone, however. Printed or flat dials are hardly in demand anymore. Numbers are at least applied and the dial has more than one level. Open plates are faceted, glasses have unusually curved surfaces. In addition, fusions are the order of the day when choosing materials: "Ceratanium" by IWC is just one combination of many that were created with the aim of making the timepieces even more robust. Retro design, which can also be found on every corner under the name "vintage" or "heritage", is also still on trend. Respected cult pieces from earlier times are currently being reissued in all possible colors and sizes - but of course with calibers and materials according to modern standards.

Cartier was the star of the fair

With the new 2019 Santos model, Cartier is focusing on over 100 years of tradition. The "Santos de Cartier" was one of the first pilot's watches in the world and was designed by Louis Francois Alfred, the son of the company's founder, and the well-known motor flight pioneer Alberto Santos-Dumont. The new "Santos de Cartier Chronographe" from the French luxury brand now impresses with its extra slim design and easy handling.

The built-in manufacture caliber 1904-CH MC is also a true showpiece of the finest watchmaking. The strap can be easily changed using push buttons. With the patented "QuickSwitch" mechanism hidden in the case, the wearer can effortlessly switch between versions made of rubber, leather or steel. In addition, the also patented "SmartLink" system allows the length of metal straps to be adjusted without additional tools - a clever move by the French. The "Panthère de Cartier Mini" provided further material for discussion. The icon of the 80s is still very popular today and has now been launched as an elegant mini version. A dial surrounded by screws, supple gold links, soft edges and the prominent octagonal winding crown - the Panthère as the connoisseur appreciates it.

The faithful replica in a new format is impressive because all proportions have been translated perfectly. Ideal for delicate wrists and for combining with other pieces of jewelry. The well-known "Baignoire" was also reissued for women this year. The wristwatch was released in 1910, but the new model was based on the design of the 1958 version. Catherine Deneuve, Jeanne Moreau and Romy Schneider were already fans of this elegant watch. The oval case with a narrow strap and Roman numerals on a silvery matte background create a sophisticated, modern image. The sister of this timepiece is less subtle in comparison: the elongated bezel of the "Baignoire Allongée" is decorated with red gold lace. The extravagant case is combined with an alligator leather strap. For extra drama, the model is also available with a diamond-set dial and even with complete diamond cladding.

Further highlights from the top brands

A. Lange & Söhne

This year , A. Lange & Söhne is celebrating the 10th anniversary of the "Zeitwerk". To mark the occasion, the manufacturer's first mechanical wristwatch with a precisely jumping digital display has been reissued: The 2019 "Zeitwerk Date" is the first example in the series that also displays the calendar day. It can be read on the new, exposed date ring, which is perfectly coordinated with the design of the watch.

The glass is printed with red numbers from 1 to 31, which perfectly matches the white gold case and the grey dial. To make the timepiece easy to set using two correction pushers, the movement has been made even more complicated: the new calibre comprises a total of 516 parts.

Audemars Piguet

The Audemars Piguet stand was probably one of the most interesting this year: This year's collection includes a total of three movements and 13 models. The company from Le Brassus launched a stunning variety of new releases, including everything from three-hand models to pieces with complications such as a chime. However, Audemars Piguet has long been known primarily for its Royal Oak models. The first Royal Oak timepiece was developed in 1972 as the first luxury sports watch. Fans are still enthusiastic about the line and eager for new versions. The highlight of the manufacturer's new releases at the SIHH was certainly the new Royal Oak variant with a smaller 38mm case and slimmer design - and the best thing is: it is equally wearable for both sexes.

Or the new CODE 11.59 series.

IWC

This year, IWC has revamped its pilot's watches. Many classics have been fitted with new high-tech cases. They not only boast World War II charm, but also elegant beige zirconium oxide ceramic or precious matte black "Ceratanium". The latter is a name for ceramicized titanium, which is particularly light and durable at the same time. The "Big Pilot's Watch Perpetual Calendar Spitfire" in an attractive military look.

Or you should definitely take a closer look at the “Big Pilot's Watch Constant-Force Tourbillon Edition Le Petit Prince” with a case made of scratch-resistant hard gold.

Jaeger-LeCoultre

The popular watchmakers from Le Sentier have launched the extremely limited edition "Master Ultra Thin Tourbillon Enamel" this year. Only 50 pieces were made. The special timepiece is equipped with a new tourbillon and a date counter and comes in a completely new look. The completely revised design impresses with its elegant case and the technical sophistication is not neglected with the new Jaeger-LeCoultre 978 caliber. The absolute icing on the cake of this watch: at six o'clock you can marvel at the spectacle of the tourbillon through a small opening.

Montblanc

Montblanc has introduced two new models that we are particularly fond of. The first is the 1858 Geosphere in bronze with a khaki green dial and color-coordinated "NATO" straps. These are even specially produced in a traditional weaving factory in France. The 1858 series is inspired by mountaineering and is dedicated to the "Seven Summits", the highest mountains on each of the seven continents - and thus the greatest challenges for ambitious athletes. The Geosphere is also suitable for water lovers, as it is waterproof to a depth of an impressive 100 meters. The second timepiece is the "Heritage Monopusher Chronograph", a real retro star.

Its exterior is reminiscent of its noble historical relatives, with the company's old logo, the applied dot indices and the three-minute division of the totalizer for counting the telephone charge units. It also skilfully continues the old traditions in terms of technology: the pusher integrated into the crown allows the stopwatch hand to be operated in the old-fashioned way.

Panerai

Panerai is currently focusing on casual elegance and pragmatism. The new Luna Rossa Challenger Submersible model is dedicated to the cooperation with the "America's Cup", the oldest sporting competition in the modern world. This will take place for the 36th time in 2019 and Panerai will be the official sponsor of Luna Rossa, the "Challenger of Record" team.

Led by Massimiliano "Max" Sirena, the Luna Rossa Sailing Team will wear the new watch with a 47mm case and dark grey sailing dial. The titanium back is engraved with the Luna Rossa logo and America's Cup profile.

Vacheron Constantin

Vacheron Constantin was founded in 1755, making it the oldest continuously operating watch manufacturer in the world. This year, the company managed to be the number one technological topic of conversation at the salon. The new "Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar" has two escapement groups, which can be easily switched between using a button. One of them has a fast-swinging balance wheel for precision on the wearer's moving arm, while the other, slower one, ensures reliable function during rest periods - and this for a duration of up to 65 days. However, you have to expect a price of 217,000 euros for this elegant, impressive watch with a perpetual calendar.

Ulysse Nardin

Ulysse Nardin has the X-factor: The "Executive Skeleton Tourbillon", introduced in 2016, is a combination of classic and hyper-modern elements, complemented by a sporty and drastically skeletonized dial. This was also the brand's first attempt to establish itself in the tough competition of the watch market and to focus on a younger, more trendy target group. The new "Skeleton X" variant is even sportier and has a revised tourbillon - and at just a third of the price of its predecessor. In addition, the case size has been reduced from 45mm to 42mm and made more elongated for a more stylish look.

The special watch is available in various versions, with the Carbonium Gold edition being particularly noteworthy. It has a 1mm larger case and is extremely light and functional thanks to the unusual material. Carbon is actually used to make wings and fuselages in aviation. The material is supposedly particularly environmentally friendly because it is obtained from aviation waste. The carbon is mixed with gold, which gives the Skeleton X a unique black and gold wave look. The design of the dial is also spectacular, as the rectangular bridge with four arms forms the eponymous "X". The famous Roman numerals have been reduced to just two at III and IX o'clock in the new version. With the exception of the black titanium model, contrasting colors were also used on the dial to optimize readability.

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Authors | Stefan Sebök

Authors | Stefan Sebök

During my school days, I worked in the warehouse of an auction house and that was when I first came into contact with exclusive, mechanical watches. The fascination was born from that moment on and has not left me to this day.
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