watch lexicon

The reference work on the subject of watches. Here you will find a detailed overview of the various functions and properties of wristwatches, as well as the functionality and complications of mechanical timepieces.

Spiral spring, moon phase, perpetual calendar? In the world of watches, there are many technical terms whose exact meaning is often unclear to many of us. In Horando's watch lexicon, you will find these technical terms from the watch industry in alphabetical order - from A for anchor to Z for central second.

anchor

In mechanical clocks, an anchor is a lever in the form of a ship's anchor that is controlled by the pendulum or the balance wheel and that, as part of the escapement, converts the torque of the ratchet wheel into a back and forth movement to drive the oscillating system. Since the anchor is subject to both sliding friction and shock stress, it is considered to be one of the most stressed parts of a clock. The classic ticking of a clock is also generated by the anchor.

automatic watch

A watch with a mechanical movement that winds itself up through movement. Of course, the so-called power reserve, i.e. the time the watch continues to run even when it is not being moved, does not last indefinitely, so an automatic watch can stop and have to be reset. In addition to the classic automatic watch, there is also a very special variant in which a rotor is set in motion by the movement of the arm, which then generates energy in a small motor and stores it in a battery.

Bear

1 bar corresponds approximately to the average atmospheric air pressure at sea level. For every 10 m of water depth, there is approximately 1 bar (hydrostatic) water pressure in addition to the atmospheric air pressure. A watch is therefore exposed to an excess pressure of one bar for every 10 m of diving depth.

chronograph

A chronograph is a watch with an additional short-time measurement (stopwatch function) that is displayed with an additional hand (chrono hand). The stop function can be started, stopped and reset to zero using buttons on the case wall. Depending on the model, seconds, minutes and hours are displayed. Well-known variants are: flyback chronograph and rattrapante chronograph.

chronometer

The term chronometer stands for a particularly precise watch with absolute accuracy. Chronometer movements are tested for accuracy by appropriate testing institutes.

chronometer test

High-quality watches show only slight deviations in their rate depending on position and temperature. If the deviations in rate depending on position and temperature are particularly small, then the watch is a chronometer, an attribute of particularly accurate watches. At the request of the movement manufacturer, various organizations test movements for their properties as chronometers by means of extensive rate measurements. If the test is passed, the movement receives a certified rate certificate. The watch manufacturer usually prints the name chronometer on the dial as a marketing measure. The best-known testing institute today is the COSC (Contrôle Officiel Suisse dés Chronometres COSC)

digital clock

Clock with digital display. In contrast to the familiar clock with hands and markings on the dial, the time is displayed on a liquid crystal or via LEDs.

double folding clasp

Double folding clasps are high-quality folding clasps that can be opened on both sides and therefore allow the bracelet to be opened particularly wide. Another frequently used term for this is "butterfly clasp". This alludes to the two-wing construction of the clasp.

pin buckle

The pin buckle is a fastening mechanism for bracelets. Holes are punched into one, longer, part of the bracelet, and the actual pin buckle is located at the end of the other. The pin buckle itself consists of the pin, which is passed through the hole to fix the desired length, a spring bar and a U-shaped metal bracket, which prevents the pin from slipping out of the hole again.

handle

Is connected to the movement and sets a function in motion. Pushers are usually attached to the side of the watch case.

compressive strength

The pressure resistance of a waterproof watch according to DIN describes the load up to which pressure a watch can withstand.

mission timer

Operational timers are watches that have been developed purely for their intended purpose. They are always characterized by excellent readability. (Example: EZM for the GSG 9 Maritime Unit)

Perpetual Calendar

In a perpetual calendar, the clockwork is designed in such a way that the calendar always displays the date, day of the week and month correctly, and also takes leap years into account. Most perpetual calendars will still have to be adjusted by one day in the year 2100, as this year is an exception and is not a leap year. A perpetual calendar usually also shows the phases of the moon.

folding clasp

With the folding clasp, the watch strap is not opened completely, but rather opened or unfolded on hinges. This widens the strap accordingly and allows it to be removed from the arm.

pilot's rotating ring

A rotating ring that can be rotated in both directions and can be stopped at minute intervals. In addition to the main marking, a minute division can be applied in a clockwise or anti-clockwise direction (countdown count). A pilot's rotating ring must be operable with gloves.

pilot's watch

A pilot's watch is a type of wristwatch that is specifically tailored to the needs of aircraft pilots. Unlike a diving watch, there are currently no binding regulations for the use of the term "pilot's watch". It is often simply used to refer to a certain traditional dial design. Additional features such as a pilot's bezel, a stop timer and slide rule scales can be integrated. The watches should be robust and easy to read, not forgetting a high level of immunity to strong acceleration. Protection against magnetization is also useful. Many models have extended or extendable straps so that the watch can be worn over the pilot's jacket.

flyback chronograph

The so-called flying zero setting allows the stopwatch hand to be instantly reset to zero with just one press during a running time measurement. After releasing the button, a new measurement begins immediately. The otherwise necessary steps of stopping, resetting to zero and starting are combined in one function.

radio clock

The radio clock is a clock whose time display is controlled by a central time transmitter using radio technology. Due to constant synchronization, the radio clock is the most precise form of time measurement today. In addition, it offers the convenience of automatic switching between winter and summer time.

gang

The term rate refers to the amount of time (in seconds or minutes) by which a test watch regularly runs ahead or behind a reference watch. Regularity is crucial, ie with a daily measurement the deviation must always be the same per day. If the watch is 10 seconds ahead at the end of each measurement day, the rate is 10 seconds.
It is important that the watch is always measured under the same conditions (temperature, position) when measuring its rate, otherwise there will be rate deviations that are not caused by the movement itself. The rate can be measured with a time scale or with special programs for long-term observation. In the simplest case, the rate is recorded with paper, pencil and a radio-controlled clock as a reference clock.

accuracy of the various clockworks

Non-COSC certified mechanical movements:

COSC (Chronometer) certified mechanical movements:

Non-COSC certified battery-operated (quartz) movements:

COSC (Chronometer) certified battery-operated (quartz) movements:

power reserve

The power reserve is the period of time in which a watch runs without having to be wound. The power reserve indicator describes the time remaining until a mechanical watch stops and thus provides information about when a watch should be wound again.

power reserve indicator

The power reserve indicator shows the winding status of the mainspring and thus the remaining power reserve of the watch. It reminds you to wind the movement again in good time.

GMT

Greenwich Mean Time. The astronomically defined local time in Greenwich, which was established as universal time. GMT owes its origin to the so-called Meridian Conference on October 1, 1884 in Washington. At that time, 25 countries in the world decided on a binding time zone regulation, primarily to provide useful assistance to international shipping. Since then, the world has been divided into 24 time zones; neighboring zones differ by exactly one hour (apart from a few exceptions). The prime meridian runs through Greenwich (near London).

Grande Complication

Complex mechanical additional function in a watch. Examples include:

power reserve indicator
moon phase
tourbillon
Perpetual Calendar
GMT
large date

large date

Particularly large display of the date, usually realized through two separate viewing windows.

manual winding

Hand winding is the manual way of getting a watch running. The winding crown is wound by hand, thus ensuring a power reserve of 38-40 hours.

Haute Horlogerie

Literally translated: High Watchmaking

The term Haute Horlogerie is used for the tradition of high-quality mechanical watches that has been revived since the quartz crisis in the late 1970s and early 1980s. In particular, this includes the ability to produce sophisticated complications. For example: rattrapante chronograph, flyback chronograph, moon phase, tourbillon, perpetual calendar and equation. In the upper luxury segment, there are also models that combine several of these complications in one watch.

inhibition

The escapement of a watch forms the connection between the gear train and the regulator. Its task is to achieve a time-equivalent step-by-step running of the movement and at the same time to continually supply the regulator with the necessary amounts of energy to keep it running despite the unavoidable friction losses.

indication

An indication is any device on a watch that can be used to show the passage of time. The so-called indication sheets are used for this purpose. Not only the time, but also the phases of the moon, the calendar or the time in other time zones are displayed in addition to additional auxiliary indicators.

annual calendar

With an annual calendar, the clockwork is designed in such a way that the calendar displays the date, day of the week and month over the course of the year in such a way that readjustment is only necessary when changing from February to March. In contrast, clocks with a perpetual calendar are also able to display leap years correctly without manual intervention.

caliber

When pocket watch production began, the movements had to be classified to distinguish them. This was done using the diameter of the movement, the caliber. While this term previously only referred to the diameter of a movement, it is now used synonymously with the movement itself.

small second

A small second is the decentralized positioning of the second display on the dial. A small second is usually found on pocket watches or hand-wound wristwatches. The position of the small second depends on the movement design, but is often at 6 o'clock.

crown

A wheel on the side of the case, usually grooved, for setting the time (or other displays such as date, second time zone, seconds, etc.), or for winding the mainspring in hand-wound watches.

luminous paint

Coating for dials and hands of watches that are to be read in the dark.

bezel

Metal ring with a device in which the watch glass is inserted to protect the hands and dial. The bezel is an important part of the watch case. This decorative ring can be firmly attached to the case or can be rotated. In diving watches, it has minute markings and is designed to rotate to set the diving time.

mechanical watch

Watch with mechanical drive: either manually wound or automatically wound - in contrast to the quartz watch. After overcoming the so-called quartz crisis, watches with mechanical movements cover practically the entire upper and luxury class of watch production and marketing.

moon phase

A rotating disc under a dial cutout is used as a moon phase display on watches to indicate the position of the moon. This is in addition to the time.

Nivarox

An alloy consisting of iron, nickel, chromium, titanium and beryllium, which is used for the production of balance springs and is characterized by its good antimagnetic and temperature-compensating properties.

Oyster

Oyster refers exclusively to Rolex's most famous sports and luxury watch series. The Rolex "Oyster" was the world's first patented waterproof watch introduced in 1962.

pendulum

The pendulum is the regulator that is used to increase the accuracy of a wall clock. The pendulum consists of a rod and a pendulum lens. By moving the pendulum lens up or down, you can roughly regulate the speed of the clock.

quartz crisis

The quartz crisis, more precisely the quartz watch crisis or quartz watch revolution, refers to the greatest economic crisis of the American, European and Swiss watch industry from around 1970 to the mid-1980s.

quartz watch

This type of watch has neither a spring, balance wheel nor escapement. A quartz watch is a timepiece that runs on an electric quartz movement. These watches are characterized by a very high level of accuracy. However, their running time is limited by battery operation.

There are essentially two display systems for quartz watches:

1. digital display with light-emitting diodes or liquid crystals
2. analog hands driven by a motor

Rattrapante Chronograph

The mechanism, also known as a split-second or double chronograph, makes it possible to display an intermediate time. The rattrapante hand is located in the center of the chronograph movement as a second stop hand that can be stopped independently of the main hand. After it has been stopped, it can be immediately brought together with the main hand at the touch of a button. Both now run together again. This function can be used to take as many intermediate times as you like.

Rehaut

Raised edge above the flat dial. Usually decorated with scales or decorative applications such as diamonds.

repetition

A repetition is a repeated acoustic signal that strikes every minute, quarter hour or hour. A church tower clock is a well-known example. Most self-strike calculators are set up to repeat the last time struck by means of a corresponding trigger mechanism.

Resting Second

The second hand remains on the second during the so-called resting second and only jumps to the next second after its completion.

skeletonization

A process of watch finishing. In order to give the watch a more delicate and filigree appearance, bridges, plates, dials and, if necessary, rotors are sawn out so that as little material as possible remains. This unusual ornament is visible through a special glass bottom. The chronograph is ideal for this type of finishing because it has considerably more parts than simple watch movements, which are ideally shown off in this form of watch processing.

spiral spring

The hairspring is a spirally wound flat wire and, together with the balance wheel, forms the oscillation system of a mechanical watch. Most hairsprings are made of a metallic alloy called Nivarox. The hairspring provides the braking and accelerating forces required to allow the balance wheel to swing back and forth evenly. The escapement supplies the energy lost through friction in pulses.

stones

Jewels are synthetically produced artificial gemstones (sapphire, ruby) that are used in the most important and most heavily used areas of the watch movement for moving parts. This reduces wear and friction. The number of jewels in mechanical watches varies between 17 and 50 jewels. The number of jewels increases with the complexity of the movement.

Swiss Made

Watches that meet very specific criteria are referred to as "Swiss made". At least 50% of the components of these watch movements must come from Swiss manufacture. In addition, the watches in question must be checked and set in motion by the manufacturer in accordance with regulations in Switzerland.

tachymeter

Clock scale for measuring speed. After covering one kilometer, the speed value can be read on the second hand of a chronograph. The prerequisite is that the stop function is activated at the beginning and end of the route.

diver's bezel

A bezel that clicks in every minute. To prevent accidental adjustment, it can only be rotated in one direction. This function is used to measure diving time. It must also be possible to operate the diver's bezel with gloves. On diver's watches, this bezel can only be rotated in one direction, whereas on pilot's watches the bezel can be rotated in both directions. In addition to a main marking (e.g. luminous triangle), there can be a minute division applied clockwise.

diving watch

This type of watch is characterized by the highest possible water resistance, a bezel that can be rotated counterclockwise on one side and excellent legibility even under water. It is therefore a type of wristwatch that is perfectly tailored to the needs of divers. Since it is not possible to avoid scraping past objects when diving, these watches are generally equipped with scratch-resistant watch glass (i.e. sapphire glass).

tourbillon

In this watch movement, the escape wheel, anchor and balance are located on a small plate in a so-called bogie, a cage that sits on the shaft of the seconds wheel. This bogie rotates with the balance and escapement parts once a minute around an imbalance in the balance system in order to compensate for positioning errors. Since high accuracy can now also be achieved using conventional methods, the tourbillon is now only an exclusive luxury accessory, but it is considered the pinnacle of the equipment of extraordinarily valuable watches.

balance

The balance wheel and the spiral spring form the heart of the oscillation system of a wristwatch or pocket watch. The balance wheel is usually made of an alloy called Glucydur. Time measurement is derived from oscillations. The balance wheel is used to generate a movement defined in time, which is then converted into a movement of the clock hands by the gear train of the clockwork. It can be compared to the pendulum of other clocks. Of course, it is much more compact and functions largely independently of the position of the clock.

screw-down crown

Because the crown is screwed to the case, a high level of water resistance and shock resistance is guaranteed.

full calendar

A full calendar is the display of all relevant data of a calendar such as date, day and month. In contrast to the perpetual calendar, these clockworks must be set once a year (at the end of February, depending on the leap year).

water resistance

An essential feature that determines the utility value of wristwatches today is water resistance. Water resistance is the ability of a watch to resist the penetration of water.

To test this, the watch is exposed to the static pressure indicated on the dial or case back at the manufacturer. This means that the manufacturer guarantees that the watch can withstand the specified static test pressure when delivered. It can also happen that the water resistance is specified in bars instead of meters. This is to be understood as follows:

3 bar = 30 m / 5 bar = 50 m / 10 bar = 100 m / 20 bar = 200 m.

Yachttimer

As a sports watch, the yacht timer is indispensable, especially for sailing enthusiasts, as it offers valuable features. Among other things, it has an integrated yacht countdown that can be set to a period of up to 10 minutes. A signal tone provides information about the time remaining until the start of the race. Of course, a yacht timer is water resistant to 100 meters in order to meet the conditions of sailing.

central second

A distinction is made between central seconds and small seconds. With central seconds, in contrast to small seconds, the second is displayed exactly in the middle of the dial.