Mechanical Watches Insider Tip 2024

They are based on complex technology, are all about traditional watchmaking and inspire watch connoisseurs with more than just their sophisticated movements: Mechanical watches have always dominated the watch industry and never go out of fashion. In this article, we explain how mechanical wristwatches work and their historical background, provide practical tips when buying, and reveal which watches with mechanical movements we believe are among the "insider tips" of 2024.

The most important things in brief

This article deals in detail with the following topics related to mechanical watches:

• Functionality and craftsmanship: Mechanical movements are based on the tensioning of a spring, which sets the wheels of the movement in motion as it relaxes evenly. The complex interaction of the many components required for this fascinates watch fans all over the world as an expression of the finest craftsmanship. Our current mechanical movements are the result of centuries of achievements in watchmaking and thus follow a long tradition.

• Quality features and purchase criteria: When buying a mechanical watch, you should always pay attention to careful workmanship. Buyers should also consider in advance which features (e.g. complications, material and type of winding) they value in a watch.

• Popular brands and models: Among the many watch brands that have rightly enjoyed great success with their mechanical watches are Rolex , Patek Philippe , Audemars Piguet , Hublot , Panerai and Jaeger-LeCoultre . The Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional and the Cartier Tank Must de Cartier are excellent examples of mechanical watches that have achieved legendary status.

What are mechanical watches?

While die-hard watch lovers obviously know exactly how a mechanical watch works, beginners and newcomers to the world of luxury watches often cannot properly explain how it works. So here we take a look at what goes on inside mechanical watches and makes the hands move.

A mechanical movement is made up of numerous components, the interaction of which results in a uniform movement of the hands. The process begins with the winding, which, when activated - for example by turning the crown on the case - winds the spring in its barrel. This stores energy in the spring. The minute wheel, which is directly connected to the barrel, prevents the spring from immediately relaxing and releasing all of its energy at once. This wheel moves the minute hand. The first wheel, in turn, is engaged by the third wheel, which moves in the opposite direction and serves as a "translator" for the second wheel that follows. The gear train is complemented by the hour wheel, which is placed a little to the side and whose rotation speed is twelve times slower.

The reliable display of the time through a uniform movement of the hands is ultimately only made possible by two other components of the movement: the escapement and the balance, which together form the so-called oscillation system of the watch. These two elements are responsible for ensuring that the hands for hours, minutes and seconds do not move randomly, but exactly as intended. To put it simply, they achieve this by the balance swinging back and forth briefly interrupting the braking escapement halfway through an oscillation. At precisely this moment, the second hand can advance.

Let's go back to where it all began and look at the winding mechanism. Winding the watch - that is, tensioning the spring - can be done either automatically or manually. Manually wound models must be wound by hand using the crown, while an automatic watch winds itself using the movements of the wrist when wearing the timepiece.

Incidentally, quartz watches are often seen as the counterpart to mechanical watches. Their movements are far less complex, because the quartz watch is essentially based on a battery that causes a quartz stone to vibrate using electrical impulses. This is how the energy required for the hands to move is generated.

History and Development of Mechanical Clocks

The first pocket watch with a mechanical movement, which goes back to the technical know-how of the locksmith Peter Hehnlein, was created in the 15th century and was nicknamed the "Nuremberg Egg". Starting from this great milestone, it would take around 300 years before the first mechanical wristwatch saw the light of day. This was created by none other than Abraham Louis Breguet, who went down in history as the inventor of mechanical watch movements.

The historical path of mechanical calibers has been shaped by various manufacturers and their achievements. In Germany, Uhrenwerke Ruhla, founded in 1891 and now part of the POINTtec company, is one of the best-known manufacturers of watch movements. But the Swiss manufacturer ETA SA, Seiko and the Japanese company Miyota have also made groundbreaking contributions to the further development and establishment of mechanical wristwatches - and they still do so today.

Craftsmanship and tradition in the production of mechanical watches

It is a tradition in the watchmaking world that watch manufacturers pride themselves above all on the movements they produce. No wonder, after all, the mechanical movement of a watch is its heart and the component that most clearly demonstrates the manufacturer's skills. Precision, the pursuit of perfection, a spirit of innovation, attention to detail and, last but not least, a wealth of knowledge and skill in the exciting field of watchmaking are the ingredients needed to build a truly masterful caliber.

The movements of luxury watches , which are painstakingly handcrafted, are complex works of art that become even more fascinating with each additional complication. In addition to the construction of the complicated movements, the so-called finissage also plays an important role in production. This term summarizes various techniques for refining watch movements. This includes, for example, engraving and grinding various surfaces as well as polishing or gilding individual components. The techniques of guilloché, perlage and sunburst are popular. The loving decorations crown the technically sophisticated works and make them dignified representatives of traditional craftsmanship.

The importance of the movement: automatic vs. manual winding

The biggest question that arises when considering a watch with a mechanical movement is the type of winding. As already mentioned, there are mechanical watches with manual winding and models with automatic winding. With manual winding models, turning the crown turns an axis connected to it, which then winds the spring in the barrel. This is different with automatic movements: Here, a rotor whose center of gravity is outside the center of the watch does this work. Whenever the watch is moved on the wearer's wrist, the rotor starts to spin and winds the spring, with the slip clutch preventing it from being over-tensioned. This means that the spring is not over-tensioned even if the automatic watch moves a lot.

During periods when the automatic watch is not being moved, the spring begins to relax. The time between full winding and the watch stopping when the spring is completely relaxed is called the power reserve. It indicates how long the watch will continue to run without being worn or manually wound.

The biggest advantage of the automatic watch is obvious: if you wear it regularly or keep it in a watch winder, you don't have to wind it. The hand-wound models, on the other hand, have an undeniable charm, remind collectors and enthusiasts of earlier times and are particularly sought after as collector's items.

Advantages and Disadvantages of Mechanical Watches

In the watch industry, the movements used in watches are still a hotly debated topic. Quartz watches or mechanical watches - which timepieces are better? The answer: It depends on what is important to the wearer personally in a watch. Mechanical watches are considered to be extremely durable and reliable. If well looked after, a high-quality mechanical watch will remain the reliable timekeeper it was when new, even after many years. However, deviations of a few minutes per month are not uncommon for mechanical watches, while quartz watches generally only show deviations of up to 20 seconds per month. In terms of accuracy, the quartz models are therefore ahead.

Another advantage of the quartz watch: It is light and requires very little maintenance. Due to its more complex structure, the mechanical watch requires a little more attention and should be serviced at regular intervals. Quartz watches are also often a little cheaper to buy than mechanical watches. But many watch fans agree: it is worth paying a higher price for mechanical models. The craftsmanship that goes into every mechanical movement alone justifies the price difference. Mechanical timepieces - whether automatic watches or hand-wound products - reflect the tradition of watchmaking and therefore exert a huge fascination on technology-savvy watch lovers.

The fact that mechanical watches work without batteries is also an advantage. As an owner, you don't have to think about changing the batteries or worry about the batteries running out if the watch isn't worn for a long time. Instead, you have to remember to wind it. If automatic watches aren't worn or hand-wound models aren't wound in time before the power reserve runs out, they stop and have to be reset.

Ultimately, both watches with quartz movements and mechanical timepieces each have their own serious advantages and disadvantages. Therefore, before buying a new timepiece, watch enthusiasts should definitely look into the properties of the different movements, make a comparison and consider what they personally value in a watch. Price-conscious buyers who are bothered by every second of deviation in the time are more likely to choose models with quartz movements, while watch fans whose focus is on tradition, craftsmanship and aesthetics are well advised to go for a mechanical (automatic) watch.

Quality features and criteria for mechanical watches

Buyers should keep a few aspects in mind when purchasing mechanical (automatic) models to ensure that they choose a watch of the highest quality that suits their needs. These "top 5 purchasing criteria" play a particularly important role:

1. Movement and complications: Do you prefer automatic watches or hand-wound models? And what is the minimum power reserve? In addition to these questions, buyers should consider which complications (e.g. date, chronograph function or second time zone) their new watch should have.

2. Materials and workmanship: Do you specifically want a watch made of stainless steel, gold, titanium or even platinum? Every material should be carefully crafted, which is something you can usually rely on with models from major brands.

3. Design: Which watches impress with their design? The model you choose should of course be visually appealing, but the design also influences the practical use of the watch. For example, you should find out whether the strap on the respective model can be replaced.

4. Watch brands: Do you have a preferred watch brand, such as Rolex, Audemars Piguet, Tissot or Patek Philippe? Narrowing down the selection to models from specific manufacturers makes finding the ideal watch much easier.

5. Price-performance ratio: Which price segment fits your available budget? We recommend not only looking at the price alone, but always at the price-performance ratio. With really good products, the price is convincing not only because it is as low as possible, but because you get good quality for your money.

The bigger the watch brand and the more the model falls into the "luxury" category, the more cautious prospective buyers should be with regard to authenticity and potential counterfeits. They should be alert, for example, if an expensive model from a renowned brand is offered at a noticeably low price or without the relevant paperwork. If you have little knowledge of checking the authenticity of watches, you should seek professional advice when buying or buy from a provider who can expertly handle this matter for you.

Popular brands and models of mechanical watches 2024

The market offers a wide variety of mechanical watches . Especially in the higher price segment, buyers are faced with a wide selection of high-quality (automatic) watches. We would like to introduce some of the most popular and well-known mechanical luxury watches from successful brands in more detail below:

Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional

With a design inspired by the timepieces that accompanied the astronauts on the Apollo 11 mission, the Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional is a true icon of the watch world. Equipped with a small second, chronograph hand and 30-minute and 12-hour counters, the watch is powered by the hand-wound Omega 3861 caliber and has a 50-hour power reserve. Visually, the Moonwatch can be recognized at first glance by the red highlights on the dial and the characteristic tachymeter scale on the bezel. In addition to the classic stainless steel models with straps made of steel, leather or nylon, the extravagant bicolor versions with elegant gold elements on the dial and strap are very popular.

Vacheron Constantin Patrimony hand-wound

The Patrimony watches from Vacheron Constantin are the dream come true of every watch lover with a preference for traditional masterpieces with a subtle, classic design. Finely crafted leather straps meet a flat, circular case that houses a thoroughly elegant dial. The technically simplest version is fitted with the hand-wound caliber 1440, while the more complicated versions with a perpetual calendar and moon phase are made to tick by the automatic movement 1120/3 QP/1. The Patrimony thus meets the needs of customers who prefer hand-wound watches as well as those who prefer automatics.

Hublot Big Bang One Click

Large visible screws, a striking case and a powerful automatic caliber with a 50-hour power reserve on board: that's the Big Bang One Click from Hublot. The eye-catching automatic watch with a diameter of 33 or 39 millimeters appeals primarily to watch-loving women. This may be due in part to the diamond-studded bezel, but also to the high-contrast design. Because the Big Bang One Click is a meeting of opposites. The sparkling gemstones and the satin-finished steel and gold are in stark contrast to the solid case shape and the functional rubber strap. That may not be to everyone's taste, but one thing is certain: a Hublot Big Bang One Click model attracts everyone's attention.

Cartier Tank Must de Cartier

With its rectangular case and Roman numerals on the simple dial, the Cartier Tank has long since become a legend. In the Must de Cartier version, which is available in three different sizes, a reliable automatic caliber brings the watch to life. If you take a closer look at this model, sooner or later the small date display at the 6 o'clock point catches your eye. This is pleasantly harmoniously integrated into the dial and enhances the timepiece without demanding attention. Available with both a leather strap and a bracelet made of precious metal, the Cartier Tank Must de Cartier watches - whether new or vintage models - have a very special charm. This is certainly one reason why the famous watches from the Cartier brand have withstood the test of time and always seem to be on trend.

A. Lange & Söhne 1815

Would you like a watch with an extra portion of classic elegance? Then the A. Lange & Söhne 1815 collection is worth a closer look. The product line is all about tradition and its name refers to the year the brand's founder, Ferdinand Adolph Lange, was born. The sense of tradition can be seen in the design of the elegant models, for example in the blued hands and the "Chemin de fer" minute track. The mechanical movement L051.1 also has traditional components, such as hand-engraved balance pistons and screwed gold chatons.

Ulysse Nardin Executive Diver X Skeleton

The Diver X Skeleton watches from Ulysse Nardin are exciting new interpretations of the traditional diving watch, whose design showcases the courage to be extravagant that characterizes the manufacturer. The watch combines the sporty character of the Ulysse Nardin Diver with the technical inner workings of the Blast Skeleton. The result is a solid titanium sports watch with automatic winding, 72-hour power reserve and an elaborate skeletonization that makes it an absolute eye-catcher.

NOMOS Glashütte Orion 33

Style-conscious ladies who want a delicate watch with a mechanical movement will find what they are looking for in the Orion 33 from NOMOS Glashütte. Thanks to the small case diameter of 33 centimeters and the fine design, the watch with hand-wound caliber cuts a fine figure even on delicate wrists without appearing too bulky or heavy. In combination with the soft calf suede strap, the delicate cornflower blue hands and the wafer-thin indices on the cream-colored dial, the Orion 33 perfectly shows that mechanical watches can also shine in soft, gentle designs.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute

Originally developed for polo players, the Reverso by Jaeger-LeCoultre has a very special feature: a reversible case. In the Tribute version, the watch presents itself in the usual luxurious manner. The automatic watch for men and women stands out from the crowd with its rectangular dial, which leads to the bracelet in harmonious gradations, and is optionally available with various complications. For example, there are chronograph models, but also models with a small second and calendar.

Panerai Luminor

The Panerai Luminor is a watch that combines precision, exceptionality and robustness. The focus of the classic "Base" version with a rubber strap is the automatic manufacture caliber P.6000. This is a 110-part movement with manual winding and a full three days of power reserve. The case and base are made of stainless steel and frame a straight-lined dial with luminous hands, which underline the sporty note of the timepiece, which is water-resistant to 10 bar.

Hamilton American Classic Intra-Matic Chronograph

Anyone who is enthusiastic about sporty chronographs with automatic movements and is looking for high-quality entry-level watches should not miss the American Classic Intra-Matic watch from Hamilton. The model for men and women conceals an H-31 caliber under the attractive case - a chronograph caliber that is known for its reliability and accuracy. In addition to the stylish steel or leather straps, the modern tachymeter scale and the skilfully placed date, the American Classic Intra-Matic scores with extremely fair prices that not every Swiss manufacturer can compete with.

Care and maintenance of mechanical watches

The fact is: Mechanical watches require care in order to function reliably in the long term. It is advisable to have watches with mechanical (automatic) movements serviced every few years. This involves checking the caliber for any defects, which can then be repaired before they cause any further damage. It is also advisable to wind the watches regularly. With automatic models, this is done by wearing them or storing them in a watch winder; timepieces with hand-wound calibers must be wound manually using the crown.

When it comes to cleaning, mechanical automatic watches differ only slightly from quartz watches. As a rule, it is sufficient to wipe the watches occasionally with a soft cloth and to clean link bracelets with fine brushes. Leather straps, on the other hand, benefit from special leather care products that keep them supple. To avoid scratches, the timepieces should be stored on soft surfaces after wearing. Watch winders, textile-lined watch boxes and the original boxes are sometimes suitable for this.

Investment potential and value retention of mechanical watches

Mechanical watches from renowned watch brands such as Rolex, Cartier, TAG Heuer, Patek Philippe, Tissot or Audemars Piguet generally show an extremely stable value on the market. This makes them an attractive investment option for investors. However, not every watch necessarily increases in value and price just because it contains a mechanical (automatic) movement and is produced by a well-known brand. It is therefore always advisable to look at the past performance of specific models, make a comparison and, if necessary, seek advice from an expert.

One of the factors that can influence the value of a watch over time is availability. Models that are offered in large numbers on the secondary market and can be purchased at any time with just a few clicks are traded at a lower price in relation to the list price than watches that have a certain rarity value. For example, it is often observed that watches change hands at higher prices when a watch brand stops production or announces from the outset that the watch in question will only be produced in small numbers.

In principle, it is not just the watch itself that influences the price at which it can be resold, but also its condition. Timepieces that show signs of everyday use or that no longer have all of their accessories and papers will not sell for the highest price. For this reason, it is worth taking good care of these expensive products and keeping the associated documents and the original box safe.

Buying advice and tips for purchasing a mechanical watch

High-quality watches from successful watch brands come at a price. That's why buying one should be particularly well thought out. But how do you find the perfect mechanical watch? First of all, we would like to point out the important purchase criteria and quality features that have already been discussed in detail in this article. In addition, details and small things also play a role in the individual preferences of the buyer, which buyers can think about using the following questions:

• When will the watch be used (e.g. everyday life, sports, office or special occasions) and what outfits should it go with?

• Should the dial have a certain color?

• Do you prefer a filigree, delicate or a solid model?

• Does the watch have to be waterproof?

• What material should the bracelet be made of?

• Are Roman or Arabic numerals preferred?

• Does embellishment with gemstones or special cuts on the dial suit your personal style?

Knowing exactly what you are looking for is half the battle when buying a watch. The other half is getting offers and making sure you buy from a reputable seller. After all, it is well known that there are some black sheep among watch dealers. If you do not buy the watch directly from the manufacturer, you should be careful. Counterfeits can be recognized by, among other things, different information in the documents, inconsistent serial numbers and references, and defects in the workmanship of the dial, case, hands, etc. If you want to be on the safe side, the easiest way to get a new watch is through a proven seller who carefully authenticates their watches. We at HORANDO check the authenticity of every single watch in our range and thus reliably protect our customers from making bad purchases.

Current trends and innovations in the field of mechanical watches

Even though mechanical watch movements have a long tradition, they are constantly changing. Every major watch brand - from Rolex and Omega to Audemars Piguet, Patek Philippe and Tissot - is constantly striving to optimize its watches and strive for contemporary changes and developments in terms of calibers and design. This also includes the development of new materials. Rolex, for example, now produces bezels made of Cerachrom, a scratch-resistant, color-fast ceramic material. Rolex also came up with the innovative development of the escapement. The Chronergy escapement is characterized by its insensitivity to magnetic fields and achieves around 15% greater efficiency.

Audemars Piguet has been at least as imaginative in the recent past. The brand has focused on flat cases and impressively demonstrated that great complications and slim designs are not mutually exclusive. The Royal Oak anniversary model, presented in 2022, is equipped with the caliber 2968 with a flying tourbillon - a movement that measures just 3.4 millimeters in height.

Time and again, established and up-and-coming watch brands dare to create watches with designs that clearly deviate from the standard. This is achieved, for example, by experimenting with different case shapes, deliberately "misplacing" individual components on the dial or implementing concepts that initially sound quite adventurous. For example, the U-Boat brand produces watches that are filled with oil under the glass, so that a characteristic air bubble can always be seen.

Across all brands, a trend towards real color can currently be observed. Some watch brands are releasing new additions to well-known collections that stand out with colorful straps and bright or even patterned dials. Where shades of white, black, gray, brown and silver once predominated, there are now increasingly splashes of color in green, blue, red, pink, orange or yellow, giving the watches a modern, playful touch.

style advice for mechanical watches

As fascinating as mechanical watches are on a technical level, for many people they are one thing above all: a piece of jewelry for the wrist that should complement their outfit as best as possible and express their personal style. If you approach the purchase of a watch with exactly this intention, the occasion on which the watch is to be worn is particularly important.

If you want to wear the luxury watch mainly in the office and are usually dressed in a jacket and shirt, skirt and blouse or pantsuit, classic models are a good choice - possibly with a date display as a practical feature. For example, women choose the classy Rolex Datejust and usually base their choice of case material on the materials their other jewelry is made of. However, it is currently becoming more and more of a trend to deliberately combine different precious metals with one another. The old rule of thumb "gold to gold, silver to silver" is therefore no longer mandatory. The aforementioned Datejust made of stainless steel with a muted green dial can be worn wonderfully with delicate yellow gold bracelets or a gold ring that picks up the dial color with an emerald or a rich green moldavite.

Men often want their favorite watch to have a certain sporty touch, even in their everyday office life. This is exactly what many diving watches and chronographs with mechanical movements have. The best examples of watches that, despite their sporty design, can be worn with a classic office look are the Rolex Submariner , the Rolex GMT-Master II , the Tissot T-Sport , or the Nautilus by Patek Philippe . If you want a watch with a traditional look for special occasions that undoubtedly deserves to be a status symbol, the Rolex Perpetual 1908 is an excellent choice, perhaps with a cognac-colored strap to match shoes and a belt in the same leather tone. Women will find the Patek Philippe Gondolo with its diamond-set dial and pearl strap to be the ideal companion for grand entrances.

If you wear the watch mainly for sports and everyday life, diamonds and pearls are usually too much of a good thing. In this case, simple but no less chic mechanical timepieces are recommended, which enhance the "casual look" without being too obtrusive. For women, the Rolex Oyster Perpetual or Yacht-Master models with small case diameters are a good option, while men can combine jeans and a T-shirt with the Hublot Classic Fusion , the Panerai Luminor or the Royal Oak by Audemars Piguet.

Ultimately, choosing a mechanical watch is a very individual matter that should not be subject to any limits or rules, but rather to your own personal preferences and values. The world of watches invites you to experiment, to reinvent yourself, to perfect your own look with an exquisite watch and to find out how the most beautiful facets of your own style can be highlighted and underlined by a perfectly chosen timepiece.

Conclusion

Mechanical watches do not require batteries, have complex, technically sophisticated movements and are a symbol of tradition and impressive developments in watchmaking. Compared to quartz watches, they are often a little more expensive, but are also considered to be extremely durable and often prove to be extremely stable in value. Thanks to the large variety of mechanical watches that characterize the product range of renowned brands such as Rolex, Hublot, Hamilton and Audemars Piguet, men and women with a wide variety of tastes and ideas get their money's worth.