The best watch brands: icons, innovations and investments

Nov 19, 2024by Alessandro Rossi
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Watch lovers and collectors know that technically sophisticated luxury watches are much more than devices for displaying time. They are valuable works of art and express the centuries-old tradition of watchmaking in such a stylish way that many people see them as the most important and expressive accessory of all. At the same time, they function as promising investment objects and have a significance for connoisseurs of haute horlogerie that goes far beyond their material value. This applies, of course, above all to the fine products of the most popular and renowned watch brands of our time, which this article deals with. We provide an overview of the most important watch manufacturers, take a closer look at the top 10 watch brands, explore the secrets behind their success and dedicate ourselves to their most sought-after models.

The most important things in brief

Below, these aspects of the best watch brands are discussed in more detail:

  • Iconic models: The Rolex Daytona, the Nautilus by Patek Philippe and the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak are examples of luxury watches that have long since achieved legendary status and have paved the way for "their brand" to reach the pinnacle of watch manufacturers.

  • Historical and technical backgrounds: Watch fans are not only interested in the individual watches, but also in their technical backgrounds and the historical development of the respective brand. After all, it is the historical developments and technical achievements that have made today's production of fine watches possible in the first place.

  • Luxury watches as an investment: Coveted references from major brands such as Rolex , Omega , Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin are attractive investments for investors.

The Watchmaking Craft: Art and Science

All major watch brands have one thing in common: as companies, they are steeped in the history of watchmaking over the past centuries and operate in an area of ​​craftsmanship with an enormously rich tradition. Their watch models are based on craftsmanship and know-how, which largely dates back to times gone by, has been meticulously developed and today enables the creation of astonishingly complicated and precise luxury watches.

In addition to tradition and "old" knowledge, it is also the spirit of innovation that is inherent in the giants of the world of watches and that unites them. A watch manufacturer that does not think about the future, rests on what is already established and is not brave enough to try something new will simply be left behind in the market. This is why new technologies and inventions also play a central role. Every successful luxury brand strives to optimize its models by, for example, implementing new technical ideas, developing special materials or testing different methods for integrating complications. In this way, traditional art and modern approaches are combined in watch icons that take our breath away.

Before we create a top 10 list of the best watch brands from Germany, Switzerland and around the world in the rest of this article, we will first focus on the most famous brands without any specific ranking or order. In doing so, we will talk about the historical backgrounds of the companies, the valuable contributions they have made to the watch industry and their most iconic models.

Rolex: The icon of the watch world

We start with a luxury watch brand that naturally has a firm place among the prestigious giants of the world of watches: Rolex. The company, whose success story began at the beginning of the 20th century, was founded by Hans Wilsdorf and stands for pure luxury. The spirit of invention and innovation is in his genes, so to speak. Wilsdorf was a true visionary and created, for example, the incomparable Oyster, the first waterproof wristwatch with a hermetically sealed case.

Trying to compile a list of all the Rolex watches in demand would result in a very long list. That's why we're concentrating on the "best of the best" here, which undoubtedly includes the legendary Rolex Daytona. The watch, which initially sold rather slowly when it was first released in 1963, regularly achieves top prices at auctions and is the epitome of a historic sports watch at the highest technical level. Just as famous is the Rolex Submariner, which has been seen on James Bond's arm several times and is considered one of the most popular diving watches ever.

The third watch in the group of Rolex icons is the GMT-Master II with a waterproof Oyster case and a second time zone, which is aimed at frequent travelers and globetrotters who do not want to do without a large portion of luxury on their wrists while on the move. Its striking design with the two-tone bezel has earned it numerous nicknames, including "Pepsi" (blue-red), "Starbucks" (black-green) and "Batman" (blue-black).

Patek Philippe: The Quintessence of Elegance

Founded in 1839, the Patek Philippe brand - which was then called Patek, Czapek & Cie - looks back on a long company history. The Swiss manufacturer, which made watches for Queen Victoria of England and Countess Koscowicz of Hungary, has brought the watch industry a number of achievements, including the first perpetual calendar for pocket watches, the first double chronograph and the first wristwatch with a split-second chronograph. In 1989, the watch manufacturer achieved a real stroke of genius: it released the Calibre 89 with a total of 33 complications, making it the most complicated watch of all time to date. It is therefore no wonder that Patek Philippe is still one of the absolute leaders in terms of building technically sophisticated watches.

In addition to the impressive "inner values" of Patek Philippe watches, watch fans also appreciate the manufacturer's timepieces for their extremely elegant designs. Even sporty watches, such as the Aquanaut and Nautilus diving watches, are characterized by an unmistakable elegance that makes them wonderfully combinable with suits and tuxedos. Both sports watches are also available in slightly more delicate versions for women and are available in such a diverse selection that everyone should be able to find a model that exactly matches their personal taste.

The diversity mentioned above is also evident in the entire Patek Philippe product range. If you take a look at the range, you will quickly see that there is a huge range of models for him and her, with Patek Philippe always remaining true to certain core values: quality, precision and elegance are the common thread that clearly runs through the manufacturer's variety of watches.

Audemars Piguet: Masterful craftsmanship

The watch brand Audemars Piguet was founded in 1875 and is still in the hands of the founding family today. This gives it an independence that not many brands in the watch industry have anymore. The question of whether Audemars Piguet has the courage mentioned at the beginning and so important to deviate from the beaten path is answered quite clearly about a century after the company was founded. At that time, the brand set a memorable milestone by starting to produce luxury watches made of steel. What is nothing unusual today was virtually unthinkable at the time. Watches made of steel were functional instruments at best, but far from being status symbols of any kind.

That changed with the introduction of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, which the brand designed together with the designer Gérald Genta. The creative mind of Gérald Genta, who worked with Rolex and Omega in addition to Audemars Piguet, produced around a hundred watches during his lifetime, but the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak is definitely one of his greatest masterpieces. To this day, it forms the heart of the watch manufacturer's product portfolio and is available in three lines - Royal Oak, Royal Oak Offshore and Royal Oak Concept. The classic Royal Oak inspires collectors with its impressive range of functions, which, depending on the model, includes a tourbillon, a minute repeater, a perpetual calendar or a chronograph function. The coveted watch models are also available in a version with an extra-flat case - a design feature for which Audemars Piguet is known.

Investors, on the other hand, like to keep an eye on the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak primarily because of its potential for value appreciation. The multifaceted models from the Swiss brand have always enjoyed strong demand and are therefore considered extremely attractive investments with stable value.

Cartier: Elegance and Tradition

One name that should not be missing from any watch brand list is Cartier . If you are not very familiar with the world of watches, you might initially think of this brand as being more of an expensive piece of jewelry than a timepiece. But Cartier had already influenced the watch industry in 1904 when it built a modern wristwatch for the Brazilian aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont. This was followed by numerous luxurious timepieces and collections that are bursting with elegance and chic. But it is and remains the watch from the early 20th century that has taken the hearts of watch lovers by storm as the Santos de Cartier or Cartier Santos.

The Cartier Santos collection now consists of a large number of models with different case sizes and made from different materials. Sometimes the Cartier Santos , which can be recognized by its visible screws and octagonal case, is presented in a simple steel dress with a colorful dial, sometimes it shines in shiny gold and shows off its Roman numerals in contrast on a classic white background. What all models have in common is the harmonious look that results from perfectly chosen proportions and the precisely placed shape that allows the case to flow smoothly into the bracelet.

Apart from the Santos de Cartier, another Cartier watch is particularly popular: the Tank. With two parallel side bars that create a straight connection between the case and the strap, the Cartier company shows its modern side with the Tank. The watch, which was presented to the public in 1919, stands out from the crowd thanks to its elongated case shape and combines this expression of fresh ideas in its design with traditional elements, for example in the form of Roman numerals.

Lange & Söhne: German Precision

The history of the A. Lange & Söhne brand began with Ferdinand Adolph Lange, who acquired his knowledge of watchmaking during his apprenticeship with the Saxon watchmaker Johann Friedrich Gutkaes. The manufactory he founded in Glashütte initially concentrated on the production of high-quality pocket watches and was continued by Lange's sons. The company made a name for itself with the "Tourbillon of the Century" released in 1900, for which Emil Lange received the Knight's Cross of the French Legion of Honor.

After the end of the Second World War, the company was forced to be nationalized, meaning that for the first time it was no longer under the management of the Lange family. However, this changed again in 1990: reunification gave Walter Lange the chance to take up his inheritance and bring the brand back into family ownership. In the years that followed, A. Lange & Söhne rose like a phoenix from the ashes. The watch brand demonstrated its in-depth skills in precision engineering and quickly rose to become one of the best-known luxury watch brands in Germany. A. Lange & Söhne thus became a brand that competes with the "really big names" - such as Rolex, Omega or Patek Philippe - and stands for German precision and attention to detail.

These values ​​are reflected in the brand's signature model - the Lange 1. This first-class watch with a three-quarter plate and screw balance combines the great achievements of Saxon watchmaking and visually integrates modern, innovative elements such as the decentralized design of the dial and the striking large date. In this way, the Lange 1 represents both the company's adaptability and its "old" knowledge, which mainly dates back to the times when A. Lange & Söhne was involved in the production of high-precision pocket watches. Another particularly well-known model of the brand is the A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk. Its design immediately catches the eye with its innovative mix of analog and digital display components and secures the Zeitwerk watch a place among the luxury watches that are guaranteed to be remembered.

Jaeger-LeCoultre: Innovation and Versatility

Active in the watchmaking industry since 1833, the Jaeger-LeCoultre company, with its headquarters in the Vallée de Joux in Switzerland, is an extremely broadly positioned watchmaker. The brand's diverse expertise is based on the collaboration of specialists from a wide range of areas related to watchmaking and results in watches that score points with unrivalled quality down to the last detail. The name Jaeger-LeCoultre expresses the fusion of Swiss watchmaking technology with French style - a characteristic of the brand that can be found in every single watch.

This exquisite mixture is particularly impressively illustrated in the Reverso collection, among others. The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso luxury watches, which were once built for use in polo matches, have a unique feature: their reversible case. The reversible case was originally designed to protect the watch's glass from any blows during a polo match - an innovative idea. The design of the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso watch has an androgynous style, which is softened in some models by harmoniously placed diamonds and drifts more towards feminine elegance.

The already mentioned diverse expertise of the Jaeger-LeCoultre brand is underlined by the Master Control product line. Here you will find everything that makes the hearts of technology-savvy watch fans beat faster, from watches with a chronograph function to models with a date and moon phase display to 24-time zone models. Each model impresses with such impressive design strength that the description "luxury" almost seems to be an understatement.

Other outstanding luxury watch brands

Of course, in addition to the luxury watch brands already presented in detail, the world of watches has many other manufacturers that really need to be mentioned. How could a list of the top watch brands be complete if it didn't mention Omega, for example? Omega watches are considered the epitome of traditional Swiss watchmaking worldwide. If you ask watch collectors which is the best Swiss watch, they will always name Omega watches, especially the Speedmaster and Seamaster models, alongside Rolex models. The brand is particularly famous for its decades-long history with space research, to which we owe the legendary Moonwatch.

The same applies to TAG Heuer timepieces, which are particularly popular with lovers of sporty designs. Closely linked to motorsports, the TAG Heuer brand produces analogue watches and smartwatches that meet the high demands of racing thanks to their enormous precision and practical features. The keyword "sports watches" leads us directly to the next big watch brand that deserves a place on any such list: Breitling. The brand primarily focuses on pilot's watches and chronographs and has a number of watch models that prove how well sporty, functional concepts can be combined with a simple, classic look or with colorful extravagance.

Top 10 Watch Brands: The Best in the Watch World

After having talked in detail about some of the most important brands and watch models, it is time to put our cards on the table: Which watch brands are the best and make it to the top of our top 10? When making our selection, we primarily considered these three criteria:

  • Quality: High quality of the watches, careful workmanship and technically flawless implementation

  • Innovations and History: Impressive company history, innovative achievements and international reputation

  • Popularity: Demand and awareness among watch lovers, collectors and investors

On this basis we arrive at the following ranking of the top 10 watch manufacturers:

#1: Rolex - The pinnacle of watchmaking

The undisputed first place belongs - and for many connoisseurs it will come as no surprise - to the Rolex brand. It combines all the characteristics of an iconic watch brand, has a rich history, enjoys a huge reputation around the world and has produced countless luxurious watches that continue to amaze us even today.

Data & Facts

  • The history of the successful watch brand, which is appropriately represented by the symbol of the crown, began in 1905 with the founding of a watch distribution company by Hans Wilsdorf

  • The first waterproof wristwatch - the Oyster - was made by Rolex, as was the first watch waterproof to 100 meters, the Submariner

  • It is estimated that the company, headquartered in Geneva, now produces over a million watches per year

Most popular models

  • Daytona : Sports watch with tachymeter scale on the bezel and three totalizers

  • Submariner : diving watch with unidirectional rotating bezel, 60-minute graduation and triple sealing system

  • GMT-Master-II : GMT timepiece with second time zone, 24-hour graduation and date display

#2: Patek Philippe - Sportiness and elegance in symbiosis

In our opinion, the watch brand Patek Philippe deserves second place. The experienced manufacturer went down in history with great technical inventions and today has the status of a true icon in the watch industry. Many fans of high-priced timepieces will probably think of one thing in particular when they think of Patek Philippe: the brand's ability to harmoniously give functional sports watches a thoroughly elegant appearance.

Data & Facts

  • The roots of the Patek Philippe brand, which is now based in Geneva, go back to 1839

  • We have Patek Philippe to thank for, among other things, the first pocket watch with a perpetual calendar, the first split-seconds chronograph in wristwatches and the world's first double chronograph

  • Around 55,000 Patek Philippe watches are manufactured annually at the Plan-les-Ouates production facility

Most popular models

  • Aquanaut : Modern diving watch with luminous hands and date

  • Nautilus : Legendary diving watch with octagonal, rounded case and date display at the 6 o'clock point

#3: Audemars Piguet - Royal Oak in focus

The watch brand Audemars Piguet, which we place in third place in our ranking, is particularly associated by most watch lovers with the Royal Oak product line. Then as now, it is the heart of the manufacturer, which is known for the exclusivity, quality and functionality of its models.

Data & Facts

  • Audemars Piguet was founded in 1875 by Louis Audemars and is still family-owned today

  • The brand was one of the first to venture into producing expensive luxury watches made of steel

  • Every year, around 45,000 watches leave the Audemars Piguet factories in Switzerland

Most popular models

  • Royal Oak : Classic, complicated Luxury watch designed by Gérald Genta

  • Royal Oak Offshore : Royal Oak with visible screws and octagonal case

  • Royal Oak Concept: Visually futuristic Royal Oak with ceramic case and visible screws

#4: Omega - Luxury from Biel

Even though Omega narrowly missed the winner's podium in our list, the Swiss brand is considered by many watch fans to be Rolex's biggest competitor. The watch brand has achieved this status not least because of its technically sophisticated movements, versatile designs and the huge demand for Omega watches, which has made the popular models interesting for investors for decades.

Data & Facts

  • Omega was founded in 1848 and is now part of the Swatch Group

  • The company is involved in the exploration and preservation of the oceans and is also inextricably linked to space research

  • The brand's headquarters are now in Biel, where around 570,000 Omega watches roll off the production line every year.

Most popular models

  • Seamaster : diving watch collection that includes the Aqua Terra, Diver 300M and Planet Ocean models

  • Speedmaster : High-performance timepieces that meet the demands of real astronauts and are particularly sought after in the Moonwatch Professional version

#5: Jaeger-LeCoultre - The Watchmaker of Watchmakers

Due to the high quality, reliability and complexity of the movements produced by Jaeger-LeCoultre, the brand was given the nickname "The Watchmaker's Watchmaker". A very fitting name, as numerous major brands have repeatedly used Jaeger-LeCoultre calibers. A fact that means that this watch manufacturer marks the happy medium of our top 10 list.

Data & Facts

  • Jaeger-LeCoultre has existed since 1833 and is based in the Vallée de Joux in Switzerland

  • The company is one of the few in the industry whose watches go through all processes from development to production to verification in its own factory

  • Jaeger-LeCoultre is characterized by the combination of the finest Swiss technology with an elegant French design

Most popular models

  • Reverso: Sports watch with reversible case, originally designed for polo matches

  • Master Control: Technically strong classics with a variety of complications

#6: Vacheron Constantin - The veteran among watch brands

If you want to buy a watch that exudes an aura of tradition and quality with every single component, Vacheron Constantin is the right place for you. The manufacturer in sixth place in our ranking has been producing watches for over 250 years, which results in an extremely wealth of experience.

Data & Facts

  • Founded in 1755, Vacheron Constantin is one of the oldest watch manufacturers still in existence in the world

  • The brand, which today belongs to the Richemont Group, is based in Switzerland, more precisely in Plan-les-Ouates

  • The annual production volume of only about 15,000 watches underlines the exclusivity of the watch brand

Most popular models

  • Patrimony: Timeless classic with extra-flat case in the style of the 50s

  • Overseas: Magnetic field-protected watches with versatile complications and a water resistance between 5 and 15 bar

#7: Breitling - Large diameters, great models

Big, bigger, Breitling: The watch brand, which is habitually mentioned in the same sentence as Rolex, Patek Philippe and similarly important manufacturers, is making a name for itself with its varied designs and large-framed cases. One look at a Breitling watch is enough to know that the Swiss manufacturer is not afraid of modern design elements or expansive diameters - a mixture that appeals to watch lovers all over the world.

Data & Facts

  • The Breitling company has been operating since 1884 and is based in the tranquil town of Grenchen

  • Well-known "ambassadors" from various areas of sport work with Breitling and act as famous brand ambassadors

  • Breitling enriches the market annually with around 170,000 sporty-luxurious watches

Most popular models

  • Navitimer : Iconic pilot's watch with 24-hour scale and optional chronograph function

  • Avenger : Visually solid, up to 300 meters waterproof pilot's watch with date

  • Superocean : Modern diving watch with colorful, high-contrast design

#8: A. Lange & Söhne - Precision from Glashütte

If a watch comes from the A. Lange & Söhne manufactory, it is always a clear indication that the wearer can expect the highest precision. Given the company's more than 150-year history, A. Lange & Söhne quite rightly secures 8th place in our top 10 ranking.

Data & Facts

  • A. Lange & Söhne was founded in 1845 by Ferdinand Adolph Lange

  • The company achieved worldwide fame with the creation of the "Tourbillon of the Century" in 1900

  • The relatively low annual production volume of around 5,500 watches means that sought-after references of the brand are sometimes traded at very high prices on the secondary market

Most popular models

  • Lange 1 : Elegant dress watch with date, screwed gold chatons and decentralized dial design

  • Zeitwerk: Exceptional wristwatch with analog and digital components

#9: TAG Heuer - petrol in the blood

TAG Heuer's closeness to motorsport is tangible for anyone who wears a model of the brand on their wrist. The watch manufacturer, which now also has smartwatches in its range alongside analogue timepieces, is the first port of call for all those who have petrol in their veins.

Data & Facts

  • The Swiss watchmaker Edouard Heuer founded TAG Heuer - formerly Heuer - in 1860

  • The brand quickly gained an enviable reputation in the field of sports watches

  • One of TAG Heuer's great achievements is the Mikrograph, built in 1916, which was the world's first stopwatch to enable measurements accurate to hundredths of a second

Most popular models

  • Carrera : Sporty watch with date and optional chronograph function

  • Monaco : Visually striking chronograph with square case

#10: Cartier - Haute Horlogerie and Haute Joaillerie united

There's no doubt about it: Cartier makes jewelry for men and women that enjoys unparalleled popularity on the market. But the company's watches are also impressive, helping Cartier to 10th place on our list of the best watch brands.

Data & Facts

  • The Cartier brand was born in Paris in 1847

  • The manufacturer combines the arts of Haute Horlogerie with its expertise in the field of Haute Joaillerie

  • Just like Vacheron Constantin, Cartier also belongs to the Richemont Group

Most popular models

  • Santos: Legendary collection consisting of the Santos 100, Santos de Cartier and Santos-Dumont models

  • Tank: Filigree wristwatch with rectangular case and Roman numerals

Luxury watches as an investment

Investing in a luxury watch can be a very clever idea - provided you choose the right model. Of course, it is never possible to predict with complete certainty how a watch will develop in value. However, certain brands and models have become particularly popular investment objects over time and are more likely to result in lucrative resale. This is particularly true of the well-known sports timepieces from Rolex, such as the Daytona, Submariner and GMT-Master-II watches, as well as the Aquanaut and Nautilus models from Patek Philippe and the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak.

In general, it is always advisable to find out about the current demand on the secondary market and the price development in the past before buying a watch as an investment. You should also pay particular attention to the condition of the watch - whether it is from Rolex, Patek Philippe or another renowned manufacturer. Damage and signs of wear can reduce the price just as much as missing or incomplete papers, boxes and other accessories.

Conclusion

Due to the relatively large number of manufacturers and watches from the luxury segment that enjoy above-average popularity, it is easy for watch fans to lose sight of the essentials. Ultimately, it is the quality of the products, the innovative spirit and know-how of the company as well as the knack for technology and design that make a brand an icon. All of these are ingredients that are an integral part of the recipe for success of long-term, popular brands such as Rolex, Pate, Philippe, Omega, Audemars Piguet and Breitling.

Über den Autor

Authors | Stefan Sebök

Authors | Stefan Sebök

During my school days, I worked in the warehouse of an auction house and that was when I first came into contact with exclusive, mechanical watches. The fascination was born from that moment on and has not left me to this day.
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