Watches and Wonders 2025: Outlook for the upcoming innovations 2025

Mar 28, 2025by Ethan Carter

From April 1st to 7th, 2025, the Geneva watch fair Watches and Wonders will open its doors. While the first days of the fair are reserved for trade visitors, from April 5th the general public will also have the opportunity to marvel at the latest innovations in the watch industry. We are taking the annual event as an opportunity to talk about the innovations and new releases of the most successful brands that will also be represented in Geneva in 2024 and 2025.

Alpina – new Alpiner and Seastrong models delight trade fair visitors

The Swiss watch brand Alpina, whose roots go back to the 1880s, is one of around 60 brands that have registered their participation in Watches and Wonders 2025. Last year, the watch manufacturer used the trade fair stage to present new models from two collections. The popular Alpiner Extreme product line received an addition in the form of a ladies' timepiece with a smaller 36-millimeter diameter. The watch series was also expanded to include a unisex model that has a special feature: for the first time, Alpina used a quartz movement in an Alpiner Extreme watch. The quartz timepiece has been available since 2024 in four fresh designs with dials in ice blue, lime green, powder pink or cream.

Just like the new Alpine models, the brand new Seastrong models were met with enthusiasm. The Alpina Seastrong Diver Extreme Automatic houses the tried and tested Extreme movement with automatic winding - an unprecedented combination full of power. The diving watches, which are water resistant to 300 meters, are modern three-hand models with a date, and are available with a rubber strap and dial in navy blue or with a bright orange strap and matching highlights.

Of course, we don't know what surprises the Alpina brand will have in store for us at Watches and Wonders this year. However, given last year's presentations, we have every reason to hope that we can expect to see one or two eye-catching sports watches.

Baume & Mercier – limited edition to start the new year

Baume & Mercier ushered in the year 2025 with a strictly limited Riviera reference. The Riviera 10785 takes the snake as its theme, which inspired the design in an enormously aesthetic way. The background: This year - following the tradition of the Chinese zodiac signs - is under the sign of the wooden snake, which is associated with wisdom, acumen and excellent intuition. Baume & Mercier captures these associations in a smoky gray sapphire dial, in whose lively structure a graceful snake can be seen. Together with the winding second hand, the gold-plated details and the satin-finished steel case, the snake design comes to life visually and undoubtedly captivates the viewer.

With the Riviera 10785, Baume & Mercier gives us a taste of the new releases that we hope to see at Watches and Wonders 2025. The brand already attracted attention there in 2024 with numerous exciting product presentations. Four collections - Riviera, Classima, Clifton and Hampton - were equipped with new references. The Riviera Squelette with semi-skeletonized automatic movement is certainly worth highlighting here, which is only overshadowed by the Riviera Tideograph with tide disc, limited to 500 pieces.

Cartier – pretty mini models and fresh colors

The Cartier jewelry and watch house has been at home at Watches and Wonders for many years and last year attracted attention with, among other things, the new edition of the historic Cartier Tortue. The limited edition reinterpretation works with a mechanical movement with reverse hand winding that makes the hands run backwards. Those who prefer a watch whose hands move clockwise should take a closer look at the Santos-Dumont variants in bold colors, also presented in 2024. The leather strap and dial of these colorful models impress with their radiance in emerald green, turquoise and light silver gray.

It is still up in the air which revelations Cartier will put a smile on our faces with at Watches and Wonders 2025. However, the luxury brand has already presented some pretty pieces that have recently become available. These include several mini models, i.e. smaller versions of famous Cartier watches. For example, a 28 x 15.2 millimeter Tank Américaine on a blue leather strap and a yellow gold, 7.2 millimeter thin Baignoire Watch have been added to the range.

Chopard – LUC timepiece with interchangeable strap

Chopard has recently made the hearts of watch fans with a penchant for luxury beat faster by expanding its LUC collection. The two "latecomer models" with hand-guilloché dials are reminiscent of the pocket watches once designed by Louis-Ulysse Chopard - the namesake of the collection - thanks to their bassiné case. The finely crafted dials feature an astronomically precise display of the moon phases, made possible by the ultra-modern Calibre 96.36-L movement with flying tourbillon. Thanks to the revised strap system, the straps on the new LUC models are easy to replace and can be changed in just a few steps - without any special tools.

At Watches and Wonders 2024, Chopard came up with a whole series of interesting new products that we would like to mention here:

·       LUC Qualité Fleurier made of Lucent Steel with revised case horns

·       Happy Sport Limited Edition refined with aquamarines and diamonds

·       L'Heure du Diamant made from ethical gold

·       LUC XPS in Forest Green with new sector dial

·       In cooperation with racing driver Jacky Ickx, Mille Miglia Classic Chronograph JX7 Limited Edition developed 

·       Alpine Eagle 41 XP Frozen Summit in iced-out design

·       Ultra-flat, partially skeletonized Alpine Eagle 41 XP Tech Titanium

It remains to be seen whether Chopard will surpass itself in terms of innovative spirit in 2025.

Frédérique Constant – Mix-and-Match ladies' watches and limited Classic Tourbillon Manufacture references

Frédérique Constant is a traditional Geneva watch company that has been run by Peter Stas since it was founded in 1988. In 2025, the manufacturer released a very special masterpiece, limited to 150 pieces: a Classic Tourbillon Manufacture luxury watch in a rich green guise. The high-performance timepiece has a 39-millimeter steel case that houses an FC-980 manufacture caliber with a 60-second tourbillon. With its harmoniously chosen color scheme and numerous optical and technical highlights, the new Classic Tourbillon Manufacture reference confidently follows in the footsteps of the previous model released in 2023.

When developing new products, Frédérique Constant also recently considered the world of women. The Highlife Ladies Quartz collection includes elegant ladies' watches with a date in a wonderfully diverse selection. Cases made of stainless steel or in a bicolor look, colorful dials or mother-of-pearl leaves, diamond highlights or simple line indices - the style-conscious watch lover is spoiled for choice here. The bracelets are practical and easy to exchange thanks to the mix-and-match system.  so that you can switch from the precisely crafted link bracelet to the everyday rubber strap whenever you want.

Hublot – Variety of materials in the new Big Bang Meca-10 watches

Anyone who has followed the Watches and Wonders trade fairs in recent years will know that Hublot is a regular guest there. This time, the brand has unveiled an impressive new product before the big event. This refers to the recently presented references of the Big Bang Meca-10 product line, inspired by model-making systems, with elaborate skeletonization and a smaller 42-millimeter case. In addition to the spectacular appearance, the materials chosen for this watch also deserve special attention. Depending on the model, the cases of the timepieces are made of titanium, a platinum-containing alloy called "King Gold", carbon or polished Saxem.

With innovative materials and a complex design, the new Big Bang Meca-10 watches join the long list of sensational creations from recent years. It was only in 2024 that Hublot attracted the interest of the public and trade audiences at Watches and Wonders with various new Big Bang releases, such as the pink Big Bang Unico in a sapphire crystal case, the square Big Bang Unico Magic Gold or the sporty and simple Big Bang Integrated Time Only with a diameter of 28 millimeters. Fans of the brand can therefore rightly be excited to see what new models Hublot will be presenting at the 2025 trade fair.  

IWC – Ingenieur Automatic 40 combines past and future

The traditional Swiss brand IWC Schaffhausen closed the year 2024 with a model release that many watch lovers have certainly been eagerly awaiting. The Ingenieur product family, redesigned in the 1970s by design legend Gérald Genta, received a new member with the Ingenieur Automatic 40. With this model, IWC succeeds in interpreting the characteristic features of the Ingenieur in an extremely modern, contemporary way. In this sporty luxury watch, the classic visible screws on the bezel, a reliable caliber 32111 automatic movement and a soft iron inner case to protect against magnetic fields meet an extravagant dial with a "grid" structure and luminous hands. In combination, these elements result in a fashionable, high-performance watch with a present "Genta influence".

However, at last year's Watches and Wonders, the focus was on a completely different IWC collection: the Portugieser. At that time, six new models of the popular IWC classic were released, which for the first time was also available with a secular calendar - called the "Eternal Calendar" at IWC.

Jaeger-LeCoultre – Unveiling two masterpieces at Watches and Wonders 2024

If one had to guess which watch brand is guaranteed to impress with new, high-end craftsmanship at Watches and Wonders 2025, Jaeger-LeCoultre would be an obvious choice. The Swiss manufacturer, which belongs to the Richemont Group, amazed the audience at the 2024 watch event with two real masterpieces.

Firstly, the trade fair audience was able to witness the announcement of the revised Master Ultra Thin collection. The newly interpreted Perpetual Calendar, which is available in four designs, offers even greater wearing comfort thanks to extended lugs and ensures optimal readability thanks to clearly designed subdials. This technically sophisticated piece of jewellery draws its energy from a Calibre 868 movement with a new escapement and 70-hour power reserve.

On the other hand, Jaeger-LeCoultre dared to use a new case for the Duometre product range and introduced it with three new models. The luxury watches differ from their predecessors in that they have a beautifully rounded bezel, a new crown design and a more curved glass. Particularly noteworthy is the redesigned Duometre Quantieme Lunaire, which is the first moon phase model in a stainless steel case to be added to the range.

Patek Philippe – Launch of the Cubitus Collection

At the end of last year, the renowned watch manufacturer Patek Philippe shared a brand new collection with the watch world: the Cubitus Collection. Instantly recognizable by their striking square case, the timepieces with a horizontally embossed dial are highly recognizable and have their own memorable personality. The Cubitus is available in platinum with a blue strap and dial, in a classic stainless steel look with a green dial, or as a chic bicolor version made of stainless steel and rose gold. The latter version is not only equipped with an extra-large date, but also with a moon phase, small seconds and a weekday display.

Aside from the Cubitus collection, Patek Philippe had other new releases in store for 2024, the following of which made their debut at Watches and Wonders:

·       Three Grandes Complications models (Ref. 5520RG-001, Ref. 5160/500R-001 and Ref. 5236P-010)

·       White gold model from the “Complicated Watches” series with dial and leather strap in deep midnight blue

·       Nautilus in white gold with denim-look bracelet

·       Pigeon blue Aquanaut in white gold and rose gold

·       Iced-Out Aquanaut with pavé of baguette diamonds and sapphires and diamond-set hour circle

·       Rose gold Golden Ellipse with matte black leaf

·       Rose gold Twenty-4 with rectangular case, burgundy dial and diamond-set case sides

Rolex – well-known models in a new guise

Unlike what one would expect from the undisputed king of the Swiss watch industry, Rolex did not present any new collections or movements at last year's Watches and Wonders event. Nevertheless, there was a lot to marvel at, as various well-known Rolex watches were brought onto the market in new color and material combinations. The following timepieces were released:

·       GMT-Master II with bezel in black and gray

·       Daytona with diamond-set bezel and mother-of-pearl dial

·       Daytona Le Mans in yellow gold with black dial and "Paul Newman" totalizers

·       Yellow gold Deepsea with bezel and dial in blue

·       Platinum Perpetual 1908 with rice grain guilloché

Will Rolex enrich the upcoming Watches and Wonders trade fair with watches that are not only redesigned, but completely new? We're keeping our fingers crossed.

TAG Heuer – innovations full of sportiness and elegance

TAG Heuer has already set a rapid pace in terms of innovations this year. The watch brand, which belongs to the luxury goods group LVMH, has, for example, given the Formula 1 chronograph a new coat of paint. The racing-inspired, high-precision timekeeping instrument for the wrist can now be found in the TAG Heuer shop in a sporty titanium case on a rubber strap. Design elements in bright green, blue or red, a small date and prominently placed sub-dials further emphasize the dynamic performance of this striking sports watch.

While the Formula 1 Chronograph is bursting with sportiness, TAG Heuer is focusing entirely on elegance with another new product. The Carrera Chronograph for women is equipped with plenty of technical features, but looks absolutely classy, ​​almost graceful. The two new references on the leather strap catch the eye with diamond-framed dials in delicate rose or mystical dark blue, perfectly matching the diamond indices and the shiny polished stainless steel case. With the new releases in 2025, TAG Heuer is once again demonstrating its variety. Sporty or elegant - those who buy from the Swiss manufacturer do not necessarily have to decide.

Tudor – Rolex sister shows its colors with the Daring Watches Collection

As the sister brand of the Rolex giant, Tudor has always been closely watched by critics and has been referred to as the "poor man's Rolex" by some malicious tongues. In fact, Tudor watches are cheaper than Rolex timepieces, but they are still part of the luxury segment and so the brand is by no means out of place at Watches and Wonders.

With the recently released Daring Watches Collection, Tudor shows that the brand has plenty of courage, design strength and character. The colorful collection breaks with conventions and includes three extravagantly designed Black Bay references. The models with dials in bright pink, royal blue and cool turquoise are definitely not for watch fans who don't like to attract attention. Rather, they appeal to those who enjoy standing out, standing out from the crowd and not hiding any of their facets. The Daring Watches selection is therefore a promising start to 2025 and makes us curious about what Tudor will offer us at the upcoming Watches and Wonders.

U-Boat – Newcomer shows potential

While most of the watch brands represented at Watches and Wonders have decades or even centuries of company history, U-Boat was only founded in 2000 and is therefore a genuine newcomer. However, we are dealing with a newcomer who has quickly made a name for himself in the watch industry and who clearly has the potential to play in the "top league".

The expansion of the Classico collection has recently attracted a lot of interest. This is a product line of relatively affordable chronographs with a distinctive design. The new models with a date and 24-hour indicator are made of titanium and are characterized by oversized numerals, overlapping subdials and a rough waffle structure on the dial. The rubber-leather straps are also eye-catching, as they also feature an unusual structure consisting of criss-crossing, raised lines.

As a young brand that has not yet established itself as clearly on the market as Rolex, Patek Philippe, Omega and Co. have long since, U-Boat will most likely have come up with one or two special features for Watches and Wonders – we are excited.

Ulysse Nardin – Extravagance on the Rise

Anyone looking for a watch that deviates completely from the status quo and attracts attention simply because of its different appearance should not miss the new additions to the Ulysse Nardin range. Connoisseurs of the brand will probably already have guessed: we are referring to the Blast Amoureuxpeintre. No component of the watch, which is limited to 29 pieces, is simply ordinary. The case is made of titanium and PVD and houses an almost shiny sapphire glass face, which has been given a breathtaking "frost effect" through the use of laser and metallization techniques. Two finely crafted hands with integrated luminescent elements move across this blurred dial. There is also a strap made of rough Alcantara, which fits perfectly with the extravagant overall concept.

The new Freak x Enamel Seddiqi, of which 30 pieces were made, is no less self-confident. The timepiece with a flying tourbillon, which is the result of a collaboration between Ulysse Nardin and Ahmed Seddiqi and Sons, can be recognized by its finely guilloched, petrol-colored dial, the typical 'no hands and no dial' structure of the Freak watches and the robust rubber strap with decorative stitching. The prospect of similarly unusual creations definitely increases the anticipation for Watches and Wonders 2025.

Vacheron Constantin – Anniversary model for the 270th anniversary

Vacheron Constantin will celebrate the company's 270th anniversary in 2025 and, to mark the anniversary, reissued one of the brand's most memorable timepieces at the beginning of the year. We're talking about the 222, one of the most famous watches from Vacheron Constantin. With the new Historiques 222, the watch manufacturer is resurrecting its historical legend, which should delight lovers of the brand beyond measure. Because anyone who can get their hands on one of the luxury watches with the Maltese cross on the stainless steel or yellow gold case will hold a piece of company history in their hands.

The information the manufacturer provides on its website about the anniversary suggests that several more "special models" will be released this year. Perhaps we will see one of them at Watches and Wonders 2025.

Zenith – DEFY Skyline CX special edition reaches for the stars

The Swiss watch manufacturer Zenith, whose company history now dates back around 200 years, is also taking part in Watches and Wonders 2025. But the brand is already reaching for the stars before the big event, with the release of the DEFY Skyline CX special edition. The chronograph is the product of a collaboration with Collective Horology, a watch retailer whose focus is on cooperation with renowned watch houses. The special DEFY Skyline model brings plenty of retro charm and is equipped with the high-frequency caliber El Primero 3620 SK, which is known for its outstanding precision. The engraved star pattern on the dial, the twelve-sided bezel and the sophisticated partial skeletonization make the DEFY Skyline CX watch with stop-seconds, limited to 200 pieces, a sought-after collector's item.

With the current limited edition, Zenith is continuing the successful series of DEFY Skyline timepieces, some of which were brought to the public's attention at Watches and Wonders last year. At that time, Zenith presented, among other things, the DEFY Revival A3648 Divers Watch, a chronograph not dissimilar to the DEFY Skyline CX model, and the DEFY Extreme Diver diving watch.

Watches and Wonders 2025: Experience innovation in the watch industry first hand

From Alpina to Cartier, IWC and Jaeger-LeCoultre to Rolex and Zenith, Watches and Wonders 2025 is once again expecting high-ranking visitors. The watch enthusiasts that the event attracts year after year can look forward to a few inspiring days full of impressive innovations, new products and exclusive luxury watches.

Über den Autor

Autoren | Ethan Carter

Autoren | Ethan Carter

Ethan entdeckte seine Leidenschaft für Uhren durch seine Liebe zum Motorsport. Als Teenager war er begeistert von Steve McQueen und dessen ikonischem Stil, insbesondere seiner TAG Heuer Monaco.

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