Developed in 1904 especially for the “father of aviation” Alberto Santos-Dumont, the Cartier Santos wristwatch is a true icon among pilot's watches. There is hardly a watch collector who would not want to own one of these special luxury watches. All Santos de Cartier models are in high demand, which always leads to poor availability and sometimes makes it difficult to get hold of the watch in the preferred version. This - and the high price of the Cartier Santos Pilot's Watch - explains why many watch enthusiasts are looking for alternative models. This article begins with a portrait of Cartier Santos watches and then focuses on alternative models that can hold a candle to the Cartier timepiece.
The most important facts in brief
This article deals with the following topics in detail:
Design features of the Cartier Santos: The design of the Cartier Santos, which is sometimes made of stainless steel and gold, is characterized by an angular case, Roman numerals and visible screws on the bezel.
Selection criteria for alternatives: When buying alternative models, design similarities are of particular interest, as well as the quality of the movement and the price-performance ratio.
Popular alternative models: Several brands offer watches that are reminiscent of the Cartier Santos in terms of design and functions. Examples include the TAG Heuer Monaco, the Tetra model from Nomos Glashütte and the DolceVita ladies' watch from Longines.
The history of the Santos de Cartier
The Cartier Santos was designed at the beginning of the 20th century by none other than the jeweler and Cartier heir Louis Cartier. His mission was to create a pilot's watch that would be easy to read without the pilot having to take his hand off the wheel. At that time, almost exclusively pocket watches were produced, which did not fully meet the requirements of aviation in the eyes of aviation pioneer Alberto Santos-Dumont. So Louis Cartier came up with something new: he produced a case with corners, to which two curved lugs were attached at the top and bottom. These provided attachment points for a leather strap so that the watch could be worn comfortably on the wrist. The Cartier Santos was thus one of the world's first wristwatches, which incidentally accompanied Alberto Santos-Dumont into the cockpit during his flight distance record in 1907 and was produced in series from 1911.
The appearance of the Santos Cartier has changed slightly over the course of its 100-year history. Since 1978, the Cartier de Santos, named by Louis Cartier after Alberto Santos-Dumont, has once again been a permanent part of the Cartier range. The latest reissue of the icon of the watch industry took place in 2018 and brings with it the unmistakable charm and touch of history that has always been inherent to the Cartier Santos models. Regardless of the exact reference, each Santos de Cartier pilot's watch is an authentic, historic tribute to great pilots and the achievements of aviation.
Key features of the Cartier Santos
The history contained in each Cartier Santos model alone makes the watches something very special. But their design is also quite unique and therefore definitely worth a closer look. When you see the Cartier Santos for the first time, one design feature immediately catches the eye: the shape of the case. The case is not round, as was common for pocket watches at the time, but has a precisely cut, rectangular shape. The visible screws placed around the dial are also not to be overlooked and make the watch stand out from the crowd for aviators to this day. The design is rounded off by classic-looking Roman numerals that stand out from the dial in stark contrast.
As part of the Santos collection, Cartier offers models in stainless steel, white gold and yellow gold as well as some bicolor versions for men and women. In some references, the case is adorned with exquisite diamonds, while other models combine stainless steel or gold with a leather strap in an extravagant color or play with the color design of the dials. In any case, Cartier always succeeds in giving its luxury watches an undeniable elegance that makes both the vintage models and more modern versions into thoroughly chic pieces of jewelry.
On a technical level, a lot has changed over the decades of Cartier de Santos history. While the watches used to be powered by a Jaeger movement, more recent references house a quartz caliber or a mechanical movement with automatic winding. In total, the Cartier Santos collection is now divided into five product lines, which we would like to present briefly:
Santos de Cartier Galbée
The Santos de Cartier Galbée has the square case typically associated with Cartier Santos watches and is delicately shaped with diameters of 24 or 29 millimetres. Available in stainless steel, gold and diamond-set, the charming Santos de Cartier Galbée impresses with neatly placed decorative screws, the characteristic Roman numerals and a comparatively low price.
Cartier Santos 100
Cartier celebrated the 100th anniversary of the Santos luxury watches in style with the release of the Cartier Santos 100 series. Its expansive size makes it a model more likely to be chosen by men than women, while the other design features - from the screws to the shape of the case and the Roman numerals - remain the same. The range includes some highlights, such as the Santos 100 XL Tourbillon with a high-performance manufacture caliber, and sometimes works with modern materials such as carbon and titanium.
Cartier Santos-Dumont
Anyone looking for a reference with an unmistakable resemblance to the “original Cartier Santos” by Alberto Santos-Dumont is well advised to choose a watch from the Cartier Santos-Dumont line. The traditionally designed timepieces resemble the first Cartier Santos pilot's watch in many respects, with the only difference being the positioning of the railroad minute track.
Cartier Santos Skeleton
With the Cartier Santos Skeleton, all eyes are on the hand-wound caliber 9612 MC, which can be admired without barriers thanks to the skeletonization. Watch enthusiasts with a passion for technical sophistication in particular will get their money's worth with such a timepiece, which is sometimes available in an iced-out version.
Cartier Santos Demoiselle
The Demoiselle airplane, built by Alberto Santos-Dumont, gives this product range for women its melodious name. The Demoiselle watches measure 24 or 28.5 millimetres in diameter, making them comfortable to wear even on slender wrists. Delicate lines, a finely crafted case and the classic characteristics of the Santos collection make the Cartier Santos Demoiselle the ideal watch for women with sophisticated style.
Anyone who thinks that the Cartier Santos is only available with a square case is very much mistaken. The two versions, Santos Rondo and Santos Octagon, demonstrate the versatility of the iconic pilot's watch in terms of design and offer alternatives for all those who do not like the models with four corners.
Selection criteria for a Cartier Santos alternative
If you want to look for alternatives to the Cartier Santos by Louis Cartier from various watch manufacturers, it makes sense to consider a few selection criteria in advance. First and foremost, a wristwatch that is chosen as an alternative to the Santos de Cartier should of course be similar in design to the original model. To this end, you should ask yourself which design features of the Cartier Santos particularly inspire you. Is it the shape of the case, the visible screws or perhaps the Roman numerals? The features that are particularly important to you personally should definitely be included in the watch you are considering as an alternative.
The quality of the inner workings also plays a role. Cartier watches are characterized by the highest quality, reliable calibres, which make a major contribution to the high quality of the timepieces. It is therefore essential to be clear about your personal expectations in this regard and to take a close look at the (automatic) calibers of the alternative watches. It is also advisable to consider which materials you prefer. Do you specifically want a watch made of gold, would you prefer a stainless steel model or should the timepiece perhaps be fitted with a leather strap? All of these previously defined criteria make it easier to find the perfect Cartier Santos wristwatch alternative.
Popular models and manufacturers as alternatives
Below, we take a look at some popular alternatives to the Santos de Cartier and Cartier Santos and discuss their key characteristics and features:
Cartier alternatives: Panthère and Tank
Loyal fans of the Cartier brand may find it difficult to make friends with an alternative model from another manufacturer. Fortunately, Cartier itself offers a number of products that could be considered instead of the Cartier Santos. On the one hand, there is the Panthère model, available from €3,950, with a square bezel, decorative screws and Roman numerals on the plain white dial. The Formuhr Tank is also worth a closer look. It features an Art Deco design reminiscent of the Cartier Santos, with the dial set in a rectangular case and prices starting at €3,550 according to the list.
Bauhaus meets elegant understatement: the Nomos Tetra
If straightforwardness and modernity appeal to you in terms of design, the Nomos Tetra is likely to suit your personal taste. The watch with its square stainless steel case and comfortable leather strap comes with a choice of a white dial or a dial in trendy pastel shades. The splash-proof model, which can be personalized with an engraving, is priced at €1,900.
Square modernity: the TAG Heuer Monaco
The TAG Heuer Monaco presents itself as a functional alternative to the Cartier Santos. The square case frames a sporty dial that showcases the chronograph function and a date. The self-winding wristwatch, which could be described as a sports version of the Santos de Cartier, is made from either stainless steel or titanium and costs at least €7,600, depending on the reference.
Inexpensive and chic: the Casio Vintage
A Casio Vintage watch makes the hearts of price-conscious retro fans beat faster. The square case shape is immediately reminiscent of the Cartier Santos, but the style of the watches is much more restrained and straightforward. The simple models, which are available with both analog and digital time displays, are available from just under €40, making them an interesting Cartier Santos watch alternative for people who can do without luxury and the associated quality in favor of a real bargain.
Aviation flair for women: The Longines DolceVita
With their rectangular case shape, Roman numerals and combination of stainless steel and leather strap, the DolceVita watches from Longines are by no means dissimilar to the Cartier Santos. The watches, some of which attract attention with colorful dials and straps, are equipped with quartz movements and are available at a price of €1,550.
Performance and investment potential
In the past, Cartier Santos watches have proven to be extremely stable in value across almost all references. This makes them interesting objects for investors who want to use the watches primarily as an investment. The enduring value of the Cartier icon certainly sets it apart from some alternatives. If you want to use a watch as an investment, you are logically more likely to choose a Cartier original than a cheap retro-Casio. The Cartier name alone is a promising feature for investors, as Cartier watches are known around the world for their quality. With the Cartier Santos and Santos de Cartier models, there is of course the exciting story of Louis Cartier and Alberto Santos-Dumont, which makes the watches even more attractive for pilots and aviation enthusiasts.
Care and maintenance of a high-quality wristwatch
A high-quality wristwatch like the Santos de Cartier needs to be looked after. Ultimately, it is the way in which the watch is maintained, stored and cared for that determines whether it remains in good condition for years and decades, which of course in turn affects its value. To avoid scratches and other damage during storage, watches should always be stored on a soft surface. For watches with a mechanical automatic caliber, a watch winder is ideal for this purpose, as it ensures that the timepieces do not stand still even if they are not worn for a long time. Hand-wound models, on the other hand, must be wound manually at regular intervals according to their power reserve.
Any dust deposits can be easily removed from the case and glass with a soft cloth. When caring for the bracelet, the material is increasingly important. A leather strap benefits from being rubbed with a suitable leather care product from time to time, while metal straps can be wiped with a cloth and cleaned between the links with fine brushes or cotton buds.
In addition to home care, it is advisable to take expensive wristwatches to a specialist at regular intervals. They can professionally check the condition of the watches and repair any minor damage before it can cause major problems. In this way, your favorite watch - whether dress watch, diver's watch or pilot's watch - will remain functional in the long term and can give its proud owner pleasure for as long as possible.
Where can you buy Cartier Santos and its alternatives?
An expensive wristwatch like the Santos should only be purchased from reputable, renowned retailers and specialist stores. In particular, sellers who offer extremely low prices for supposedly original and perfectly preserved or even new luxury watches should be viewed with skepticism. After all, the watch world is not free of fraudsters who want to make a tidy profit from the sale of one or two counterfeit watches from major brands. It is therefore very important to choose a trustworthy provider and to check the object of desire for authenticity and genuineness. Ideally, you should choose to buy from a proven, reputable retailer who will expertly check the authenticity for the customer, provide guarantees and sell the watch with all the important papers included.
At HORANDO, all this is a matter of course. We make sure that every single watch is 100% genuine before we offer it for sale. So when our customers buy a Santos Pilot's Watch or an alternative version from us, they can be completely confident that they are getting an original icon. This makes buying a watch a risk-free pleasure!
Conclusion and purchase recommendations
The Cartier Santos went down in history as one of the first wristwatches and the watch that was made for Alberto Santos-Dumont himself. The pilot's watch with the square case shape, the characteristic decorative screws and the railroad minute scale has long since achieved iconic status in the world of watches and is worn today in various men's and women's versions, including the Santos 100, Santos Rondo and Santos de Cartier Galbée. The search for a chic and worthy alternative leads through the ranges of various brands such as TAG Heuer, Longines and Nomos, but Cartier itself also has interesting alternative models up its sleeve with the Tank and Panthère models. In conclusion, however, it remains to be said that even the best alternative can only come close to the genuine Cartier Santos, but can never fully achieve its iconic uniqueness.