The best watch brands: Icons, innovations and investments

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Stefan Sebök, last updated on 11/19/2024

Watch lovers and collectors know: Technically sophisticated luxury watches are far more than just devices for displaying the time. They are valuable works of art and express the centuries-old tradition of watchmaking in such a stylish way that many people regard them as the most important and meaningful accessory of all. At the same time, they function as promising investment objects and have a significance for connoisseurs of haute horlogerie that goes far beyond their material value. Of course, this applies above all to the fine products of the most popular and renowned watch brands of our time, which are the subject of this article. We provide an overview of the most important watch manufacturers, take a closer look at the top 10 watch brands, discover the secrets behind their success and focus on their most coveted models.

The most important things in a nutshell

These aspects of the best watch brands, among others, are discussed in more detail below:

  • Iconic models: the Rolex Daytona, the Nautilus from Patek Philippe and the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak are examples of luxury watches that have long since achieved legendary status and paved the way for “their brand” to reach the Olympus of watch manufacturers.

  • Historical and technical backgrounds: Of interest to watch fans are not only the individual watches, but also their technical backgrounds and the historical development of the watches. After all, it is the historical processes and technical achievements that have made the production of today's luxury watches possible in the first place.

  • Luxury watches as an investment: Coveted references from major brands such as Rolex, Omega, Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin are attractive investments for investors.

The craft of watchmaking: art and science

All major watch brands have one thing in common: as companies, they are steeped in the watchmaking history of past centuries and operate in an area of craftsmanship that is extremely rich in tradition. Their watch models thrive on artistry and know-how, much of which comes from bygone times, has been meticulously developed and today enables the creation of amazingly complicated and precise luxury watches.

In addition to tradition and “old” knowledge, it is also the spirit of innovation that unites the giants in the world of watches. A watch manufacturer that does not look to the future, rests on its laurels and is not bold enough to try something new will simply be left behind in the market. This is why new technologies and inventions play a central role. Every successful luxury brand strives to optimize its models, for example by implementing new technical ideas, developing special materials or testing different methods of integrating complications. Traditional art and modern approaches are combined in watch icons that take our breath away.

Before we create a top 10 list of the best watch brands from Germany, Switzerland and around the world in the rest of this article, we will first look at the best-known brands without any specific ranking or order.

In the process, we will talk about the historical background of the companies, the valuable contributions they have made to the watch industry and their most iconic models.

Rolex: The icon of the watch world

We start with a luxury watch brand that naturally occupies a firm place among the prestigious greats of the watch world: Rolex. The company, whose success story began at the start of the 20th century, was founded by Hans Wilsdorf and stands for pure luxury. The spirit of invention and innovation was in his genes, so to speak. Wilsdorf was a true visionary and created the incomparable Oyster, the first waterproof wristwatch with a hermetically sealed case.

Attempting to compile a list of all the Rolex watches in demand would result in a very long list. For this reason, we will concentrate here on the “best of the best”, which undoubtedly includes the legendary Rolex Daytona. The watch, which initially sold rather sluggishly when it was first released in 1963, regularly fetches top prices at auction and is the epitome of a sports watch steeped in history. Just as famous is the Rolex Submariner, which has been seen on the wrist of James Bond several times and is considered one of the most popular diving watches ever.

The third watch in the group of Rolex icons is the GMT-Master II with a waterproof Oyster case and second time zone, which is aimed at frequent travelers and globetrotters who do not want to do without a large portion of luxury on their wrist when they are on the move. Its eye-catching design with the two-tone bezel has earned it numerous nicknames, including “Pepsi” (blue-red), “Starbucks” (black-green) and “Batman” (blue-black).

Patek Philippe: The quintessence of elegance

Founded in 1839, the Patek Philippe brand - which was then still called Patek, Czapek & Cie - can look back on a long company history. The Swiss manufacturer, which produced watches for Queen Victoria of England and Countess Koscowicz of Hungary, among others, has brought a number of achievements to the watch industry, including the first perpetual calendar for pocket watches, the first double chronograph and the first wristwatch with a split-seconds chronograph. In 1989, the watch manufacturer achieved a real stroke of genius: it released the Calibre 89 with a total of 33 complications, making it the most complicated watch of all time to date. It is therefore no wonder that Patek Philippe is still one of the absolute leaders in the construction of technically sophisticated watches.

In addition to the impressive “inner values” of Patek Philippe watches, watch fans also appreciate the manufacturer's timepieces for their extremely elegant designs. Even sporty watches, such as the Aquanaut and Nautilus diving watches, are characterized by an unmistakable elegance that makes them perfect for combining with a suit and tuxedo. Both sports watches are also available in slightly more delicate versions for women and are available in such a diverse selection that everyone is likely to find a model that perfectly suits their personal taste.

Incidentally, the diversity mentioned above runs through the entire Patek Philippe product world. If you take a look at the range, you quickly realize that there is a huge variety of models for him and her, whereby Patek Philippe always remains true to certain core values: Quality, precision and elegance spin the common thread that winds its way through the manufacturer's watch variety in a clearly recognizable way.

Audemars Piguet: Masterful craftsmanship

The Audemars Piguet watch brand was founded in 1875 and remains in the hands of the founding family to this day. This gives it an independence that not many brands in the watch industry can match. The question as to whether Audemars Piguet has the aforementioned and all-important courage to deviate from the beaten track is answered quite clearly around a century after the company was founded. At that time, the brand set a memorable milestone by starting to produce luxury watches made of steel. What is nothing unusual today was virtually unthinkable at the time. Watches made of steel were functional instruments at best, but far removed from any status symbol character.

This changed with the introduction of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, which the brand created together with designer Gérald Genta. The creative spirit of Gérald Genta, who also worked with Rolex and Omega in addition to Audemars Piguet, resulted in a total of around one hundred watches during his lifetime, but the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak is definitely one of his greatest masterpieces. To this day, it forms the heart of the watch manufacturer's product portfolio and is available in three lines - Royal Oak, Royal Oak Offshore and Royal Oak Concept. The classic Royal Oak delights collectors with its impressive range of functions, including a tourbillon, a minute repeater, a perpetual calendar or a chronograph function, depending on the model. The coveted watch models are also available in a version with an extra-flat case - a design feature for which Audemars Piguet is renowned.

Investors, on the other hand, like to keep an eye on the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak primarily because of its potential for value appreciation. The multifaceted models from the Swiss brand have always enjoyed strong demand and are therefore considered extremely attractive investment objects with a high value potential.

Cartier: elegance and tradition

One name that should not be missing from any list of watch brands is Cartier. For those who are not very familiar with the world of watches, this brand may initially conjure up images of sinfully expensive jewelry rather than timepieces. However, Cartier exerted an influence on the watch industry as early as 1904 with the construction of a modern wristwatch for the Brazilian aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont. Numerous luxurious timepieces and collections followed, bursting with elegance and chic. But it is and remains the watch from the early 20th century, the Santos de Cartier or Cartier Santos, that takes the hearts of watch lovers by storm.

The Cartier Santos collection now consists of a variety of models with different case sizes and made from different materials. Sometimes the Cartier Santos, which can be recognized by the visible screws and the octagonal case, is presented in a simple steel dress with a colourful dial, sometimes it shines in gleaming gold and displays its Roman numerals in high contrast on a classic white background. What all models have in common is the harmonious look that results from perfectly chosen proportions and the precisely set shape that allows the case to flow smoothly into the bracelet.

Apart from the Santos de Cartier, another Cartier watch in particular is making a name for itself: the Tank. With two parallel side bars that create a linear connection between the case and bracelet, Cartier shows its modern side with the Tank. The watch, which was presented to the public in 1919, stands out from the crowd thanks to its elongated case shape and combines this expression of fresh ideas in its design with traditional elements, for example in the form of Roman numerals.

Lange & Söhne: German precision

The history of the A. Lange & Söhne brand began with Ferdinand Adolph Lange, who acquired his knowledge in the field of watchmaking during his apprenticeship with the Saxon watchmaker Johann Friedrich Gutkaes. The manufactory he founded in Glashütte initially concentrated on the production of high-quality pocket watches and was continued by Lange's sons. The company made a name for itself with the “Century Tourbillon”, published in 1900, for which Emil Lange was awarded the Knight's Cross of the French Legion of Honor.

After the end of the Second World War, the company was forcibly nationalized, meaning that for the first time it was no longer under the management of the Lange family. However, this changed again in 1990: reunification gave Walter Lange the opportunity to take up his inheritance and bring the brand back into family ownership. A. Lange & Söhne rose like the Phoenix from the ashes in the years that followed. The watch brand demonstrated its profound expertise in precision engineering and quickly rose to become one of the best-known luxury watch brands from Germany. As a result, A. Lange & Söhne became a brand that played along with the “big names” - such as Rolex, Omega or Patek Philippe - and stood for German precision and attention to detail.

It is precisely these values that are reflected in the brand's signature model - the Lange 1. This first-class watch with three-quarter plate and screw balance unites the great achievements of Saxon watchmaking and integrates modern, innovative elements such as the decentralized design of the dial and the eye-catching large date in a visually harmonious way. In this way, the Lange 1 represents both the company's adaptability and its “old” knowledge, most of which dates back to the days when A. Lange & Söhne was involved in the manufacture of high-precision pocket watches. Another particularly well-known model of the brand is the A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk. Its design immediately catches the eye with its innovative mix of analog and digital display components and secures the Zeitwerk watch a place among the luxury watches that are guaranteed to be remembered.

Jaeger-LeCoultre: innovation and versatility

Active in the watchmaking industry since 1833, Jaeger-LeCoultre, based in the Vallée de Joux in Switzerland, is an exceptional watchmaker. Active in the watch industry since 1833, Jaeger-LeCoultre, headquartered in the Vallée de Joux in Switzerland, is an extremely diversified watchmaking company. The brand's wide-ranging expertise is based on the collaboration of specialists from the most diverse areas of watchmaking and results in watches that offer unsurpassed quality down to the last detail. The name Jaeger-LeCoultre expresses the fusion of Swiss watchmaking technology with French style - a characteristic of the brand that can be found in every single watch.

This exquisite blend is particularly evident in the Reverso collection. The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso luxury watches, which were once built for use in polo matches, have a unique feature: their reversible case. The reversible case originally served to protect the glass of the watch from any blows during polo matches - an innovative idea. The design of the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso watch is characterized by an androgynous style, which in some models is softened by the harmonious use of diamonds and tends to drift towards feminine elegance.

The diverse expertise of the Jaeger-LeCoultre brand already mentioned is underlined by the Master Control product line. From watches with a chronograph function to models with a date and moon phase display through to 24-time zone models, this line has everything to satisfy the hearts of tech-savvy watch enthusiasts. Each model boasts such impressive design strength that the description “luxury” almost seems to be an understatement.

Other outstanding luxury watch brands

Of course, in addition to the luxury watch brands already presented in detail, the world of watches has numerous other manufacturers that should be mentioned. How could a list of the top watch brands be complete if it did not include Omega, for example? After all, Omega watches are regarded worldwide as the epitome of traditional Swiss watchmaking. If you ask watch collectors which is the best Swiss watch, Omega watches, especially the Speedmaster and Seamaster models, are always mentioned alongside Rolex models. The brand is particularly famous for its decades-long history with space exploration, to which we owe the legendary Moonwatch.

It is a similar story with TAG Heuer timepieces, which win over lovers of sporty designs in no time at all. Closely associated with motorsport, the TAG Heuer brand produces analog watches and smartwatches that meet the high demands of racing thanks to their enormous accuracy and practical features. The keyword “sports watches” leads us directly to the next big watch brand that deserves a place on any such list: Breitling. The brand focuses primarily on pilot's watches and chronographs and offers a number of watch models that prove how well sporty and functional concepts can be combined with a simple, classic look or with colorful extravagance.

Top 10 watch brands: The best in the watch world

Now that we've talked in detail about some of the most important brands and watch models, it's time to lay our cards on the table: Which watch brands are the best and make it to the front of our top 10? We have prioritized these three criteria in our selection:

  • Quality: high quality watches, meticulous craftsmanship and technically flawless implementation

  • Innovation and history: Impressive company history, innovative achievements and international reputation

  • Popularity : Demand and awareness among watch enthusiasts, collectors and investors

On this basis, we arrive at the following ranking of the top 10 watch manufacturers:

#1: Rolex - The crowning glory of the art of watchmaking

First place belongs undisputedly - and certainly unsurprisingly for many connoisseurs - to the Rolex brand. It combines all the characteristics of an iconic watch brand, as it has a company history steeped in tradition, enjoys a gigantic reputation around the world and has produced countless luxurious watches that continue to amaze us today.

Facts & Figures

  • The history of the successful watch brand, which is fittingly represented by the symbol of the crown, began in 1905 with the founding of a watch distribution company by Hans Wilsdorf

  • The first waterproof wristwatch - the Oyster - was produced by Rolex, as was the first watch water-resistant to 100 meters, the Submariner

  • According to estimates, the Geneva-based company now produces over one million watches per year

Most popular models

  • Daytona: sports watch with tachymeter scale on the bezel and three totalizers

  • Submariner: Diver's watch with unidirectional rotating bezel, 60-minute graduation and triple sealing system

  • GMT-Master-II: GMT timepiece with second time zone, 24-hour graduation and date display

#2: Patek Philippe - sportiness and elegance in symbiosis

In our opinion, the watch brand Patek Philippe deserves second place. The experienced manufacturer went down in the history books with great technical inventions and today has the status of a true icon in the watch industry. Many fans of high-priced timepieces are likely to think of one thing above all in connection with Patek Philippe: the brand's ability to give functional sports watches a thoroughly elegant appearance in a harmonious way.

Facts & Figures

  • The roots of the Patek Philippe brand, which is now based in Geneva, date back to 1839

  • Among other things, we have Patek Philippe to thank for the first pocket watch with a perpetual calendar, the first split-seconds chronograph in wristwatches and the world's first double chronograph

  • Around 55,000 Patek Philippe watches are manufactured annually at the production site in Plan-les-Ouates

Most popular models

  • Aquanaut: Modern diver's watch with luminous hands and date

  • Nautilus : Legendary diver's watch with octagonal, rounded case and date display at the 6 o'clock position

#3: Audemars Piguet - Royal Oak in focus

The Audemars Piguet watch brand, which we place in third place in our ranking, is particularly strongly associated with the Royal Oak product line by most watch enthusiasts. Then as now, it is the heart of the manufacturer, which is known for the exclusivity, quality and functionality of its models.

Facts & Figures

  • Audemars Piguet was founded in 1875 by Louis Audemars and is still family-owned today

  • The brand was one of the first to venture into the production of expensive luxury watches made of steel

  • Around 45,000 watches leave the Audemars Piguet factories in Switzerland every year

Most popular models

  • Royal Oak: Classic, complication-rich luxury watch designed by Gérald Genta

  • Royal Oak Offshore: Royal Oak with visible screws and octagonal case

  • Royal Oak Concept: Visually futuristic Royal Oak with ceramic case and exposed screws

#4: Omega - luxury from Biel

Even though Omega narrowly misses out on the winner's podium in our list, the Swiss brand is considered by many watch fans to be Rolex's biggest rival. The watch brand has achieved this status not least due to its technically sophisticated movements, versatile designs and the huge demand for Omega watches, which has also made the popular models attractive to investors for decades.

Facts & Figures

  • Omega was founded in 1848 and is now part of the Swatch Group

  • The company is involved in the exploration and conservation of the oceans and is also inextricably linked to space exploration

  • The brand is now headquartered in Biel/Bienne, where around 570,000 Omega watches “roll off the production line” every year

Most popular models

  • Seamaster: Diver's watch collection, which includes the Aqua Terra, Diver 300M and Planet Ocean models

  • Speedmaster : High-performance timepieces that measure up to the demands of real astronauts and are particularly popular in the Moonwatch Professional version

#5: Jaeger-LeCoultre - The watchmaker of watchmakers

Due to the high quality, reliability and complexity of the movements produced by Jaeger-LeCoultre, the brand was nicknamed “The Watchmaker's Watchmaker”. A very fitting name, as numerous major brands have repeatedly turned to Jaeger-LeCoultre calibers.

A fact that makes this watch manufacturer the golden mean of our top 10 list.

Facts & Figures

  • Jaeger-LeCoultre has existed since 1833 and is based in the Vallée de Joux in Switzerland

  • The company is one of the few in the industry whose watches undergo all processes from development to production and verification in its own manufactory

  • Jaeger-LeCoultre is characterized by the combination of the finest Swiss technology with an elegant French design

Most popular models

  • Reverso: Sports watch with reversible case, originally designed for polo matches

  • Master Control: Technically powerful classic with a variety of complications

#6: Vacheron Constantin - The veteran among the watch brands

If you want to buy a watch that exudes an aura of tradition and value with every single component, Vacheron Constantin is the right address. The manufacturer in 6th place in our ranking has been active in watch production for over 250 years, resulting in a wealth of experience.

Facts & Figures

  • Vacheron Constantin was founded in 1755, making it one of the oldest watch manufacturers in the world still in existence

  • The brand, which today belongs to the Richemont Group, is based in Switzerland, more precisely in Plan-les-Ouates

  • The annual production volume of only around 15,000 watches underlines the exclusivity of the watch brand

Most popular models

  • Patrimony: Timeless classic with extra-flat case in the style of the 1950s

  • Overseas: Magnetic field-protected watches with versatile complications and water resistance between 5 and 15 bar

#7: Breitling - Large diameters, great models

Big, bigger, Breitling: The watch brand that is usually mentioned in the same sentence as Rolex, Patek Philippe and similarly important manufacturers is making a name for itself with its varied designs and large-framed cases. One look at a Breitling watch is enough to know that the Swiss manufacturer does not shy away from modern design elements or expansive diameters - a mixture that appeals to watch lovers all over the world.

Facts & Figures

  • Breitling has been operating since 1884 and is based in the tranquil town of Grenchen

  • Well-known “ambassadors” from various areas of sport work together with Breitling and act as famous brand ambassadors

  • Breitling enriches the market with around 170,000 sporty and luxurious watches every year

Most popular models

  • Navitimer: Iconic pilot's watch with 24-hour scale and optional chronograph function

  • Avenger : Visually solid pilot's watch with date and water resistance to 300 meters

  • Superocean: Modern diver's watch with a colorful, high-contrast design

#8: A. Lange & Söhne - Precision from Glashütte

When a watch comes from the A. Lange & Söhne manufactory, it is always a clear indication that the wearer can count on the highest precision.

Against the backdrop of the company's 150-year history, A. Lange & Söhne has rightly secured 8th place in our top 10 ranking.

Facts & Figures

  • A. Lange & Söhne was founded in 1845 by Ferdinand Adolph Lange

  • The company achieved worldwide fame at the latest with the creation of the “Century Tourbillon” in 1900

  • The relatively low annual production volume of around 5,500 watches means that some of the brand's coveted references are traded at very high prices on the secondary market

Most popular models

  • Lange 1: Elegant dress watch with date, screw-down gold chatons and off-center dial design

  • Zeitwerk: Exceptional wristwatch with analog and digital components

#9: TAG Heuer - petrol in the blood

TAG Heuer's proximity to motorsport is palpable to anyone who wears one of the brand's models on their wrist. The watch manufacturer, which now also has smartwatches in its range alongside analog timepieces, is the first port of call for all those who have gasoline in their blood.

Facts & figures

  • The Swiss watchmaker Edouard Heuer founded TAG Heuer - formerly Heuer - in 1860

  • The brand quickly gained an enviable reputation in the field of sports watches

  • One of TAG Heuer's great achievements is the micrograph, built in 1916, which was the first stopwatch in the world to provide measurements accurate to hundredths of a second

Most popular models

  • Carrera: Sporty watch with date and optional chronograph function

  • Monaco : Visually striking chronograph with square case

#10: Cartier - Haute Horlogerie and Haute Joaillerie combined

No question: Cartier produces jewelry for men and women that enjoys unparalleled popularity on the market. But the company's watches are also impressive and help Cartier to 10th place on our list of the best watch brands.

Facts & Figures

  • The Cartier brand first saw the light of day in Paris in 1847

  • The manufacturer combines the art of haute horlogerie with its expertise in the field of haute joaillerie

  • Just like Vacheron Constantin, Cartier is also part of the Richemont Group

Most popular models

  • Santos: Legendary collection consisting of the Santos 100, Santos de Cartier and Santos-Dumont models

  • Tank: Filigree wristwatch with rectangular case and Roman numerals

Luxury watches as an investment

Investing in a luxury watch can be a very clever idea - provided you choose the right model. Of course, it is never possible to predict with complete certainty how a watch will develop in value.

However, certain brands and models have become particularly popular investment objects over time and offer a higher probability of lucrative resales.

This applies in particular to the well-known sports timepieces from Rolex, such as the Daytona, Submariner and GMT-Master-II watches, as well as the Aquanaut and Nautilus models from Patek Philippe and the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak.

In general, it is always advisable to find out about current demand on the secondary market and past price trends before buying a watch as an investment. The main focus should also be on the condition of the watch - whether it is from Rolex, Patek Philippe or another renowned manufacturer. This is because damage and signs of wear can depress the price just as much as missing or incomplete papers, boxes and other accessories.

Conclusion

Due to the rather large number of manufacturers and watches from the luxury segment that enjoy above-average popularity, it is easy for watch fans to lose sight of the essentials. Ultimately, it is the quality of the products, the spirit of innovation and the company's know-how, as well as a knack for technology and design, that make a brand an icon. These are all ingredients that are an integral part of the recipe for success of brands in long-term demand, such as Rolex, Pate, Philippe, Omega, Audemars Piguet and Breitling.


About the author

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Stefan Sebök

During my school days I worked in the warehouse of an auction house and that was when I first came into contact with exclusive, mechanical watches. The fascination was born from that moment and has not let go of me to this day. So it was clear to me very early on that I wanted to learn more about the history and price development of watches - and of course I wanted to own an automatic watch at some point. (My absolute dream, unfortunately far away, was a Rolex GMT Master with the blue and red Pepsi bezel). During my studies, I took my first steps in trading used watches via various online marketplaces and was then able to afford a used Breitling Colt.