They are based on complex technology, are entirely in the spirit of traditional watchmaking and have long since delighted watch connoisseurs with more than just their sophisticated movements: Mechanical watches have always dominated the watch industry and never go out of fashion. In this article, we explain how mechanical wristwatches work and the history behind them, provide practical tips for buying them and reveal which watches with mechanical movements we think are among the “insider tips” of 2024.
The most important facts in brief
This article covers the following topics relating to mechanical watches in detail:
Functionality and craftsmanship: mechanical movements are based on the tensioning of a spring, which sets the wheels of the movement in motion in the course of uniform relaxation. The complex interplay of the many components required for this fascinates watch fans all over the world as an expression of the finest craftsmanship. Today's mechanical movements are the result of centuries of achievements in watchmaking and thus follow a long tradition.
Quality features and purchase criteria: When buying a mechanical watch, attention should always be paid to careful workmanship. Buyers should also consider in advance which features (e.g. in terms of complications, material and winding system) they value in a watch.
Popular brands and models: Rolex, Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, Hublot, Panerai and Jaeger-LeCoultre are among the many watch brands that rightly enjoy great success with their mechanical watches. The Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional and the Cartier Tank Must de Cartier are excellent examples of mechanical watches that have achieved legendary status.
What are mechanical watches?
While die-hard watch enthusiasts naturally know exactly how a mechanical watch works, beginners and newcomers to luxury watches are often unable to properly explain how they work. That's why we're taking a look at what goes on inside mechanical watches and what makes the hands move.
A mechanical movement is made up of numerous components that interact to produce a smooth movement of the hands. The process begins with the winding mechanism, which, when activated - for example by turning the crown on the case - tensions the spring in its barrel. This stores energy in the spring. The minute wheel, which is directly connected to the mainspring barrel, prevents the spring from relaxing immediately and releasing all the energy at once. This wheel moves the minute hand. The first wheel, in turn, is meshed with the counter-rotating third wheel, which serves as a “translator” for the following second wheel. The gear train is complemented by the hour wheel, which is positioned slightly to the side and rotates at twelve times slower.
The reliable display of the time through the steady movement of the hands is ultimately only made possible by two other movement components: the escapement and balance wheel, which together form the so-called oscillating system of the watch. These two elements are responsible for ensuring that the hands for the hours, minutes and seconds do not move randomly, but exactly as intended. To put it simply, this is achieved by the oscillating balance wheel briefly interrupting the braking escapement halfway through each oscillation. At this precise moment, the second hand can advance.
Let's go back to where it all began and take a look at the winding process. The winding of the watch - i.e. the tensioning of the spring - can be done either automatically or manually. Hand-wound models have to be wound by hand using the crown, while an automatic watch winds itself through the movements of the wrist when the timepiece is worn.
Incidentally, quartz watches are often regarded as the counterpart to mechanical watches. Their movements are far less complex, as the quartz watch is essentially based on a battery that causes a quartz jewel to vibrate by means of electrical impulses. This is how the energy required to move the hands is generated.
History and development of mechanical watches
The first pocket watch with a mechanical movement, which can be traced back to the technical expertise of locksmith Peter Hehnlein, was created in the 15th century and was nicknamed the “Nuremberg Egg”. From this major milestone, it would take around 300 years before the first mechanical wristwatch saw the light of day. This was created by none other than Abraham Louis Breguet, who went down in history as the inventor of mechanical movements.
The historical path of mechanical calibres was shaped by various manufactories and their achievements. In Germany, Uhrenwerke Ruhla, founded in 1891 and now part of POINTtec, is one of the best-known manufacturers of watch movements. However, the Swiss manufacturer ETA SA, Seiko and the Japanese company Miyota have also made pioneering contributions to the further development and establishment of mechanical wristwatches - and they continue to do so today.
Craftsmanship and tradition in the manufacture of mechanical watches
It is a tradition in the watch world that watch manufacturers boast about the movements they produce. No wonder, after all, the mechanical movement of a watch is its heart and the component that most clearly demonstrates the manufacturer's expertise. Precision, the pursuit of perfection, a spirit of innovation, attention to detail and, last but not least, a wealth of knowledge and skill in the exciting field of watchmaking are the ingredients needed to build a truly masterful caliber.
The movements of luxury watches, which are painstakingly crafted by hand, are complex works of art that become even more fascinating with each additional complication. In addition to the construction of the complicated movements, the so-called finishing also plays an important role in the production process. This term covers various techniques for finishing watch movements. These include, for example, engraving and grinding various surfaces as well as polishing or gilding individual components. Guilloché, perlage and sunburst techniques are also popular. The loving decorations crown the technically sophisticated movements and make them dignified representatives of traditional craftsmanship.
The importance of the movement: automatic vs. hand-wound
The biggest question that arises when considering a watch with a mechanical movement is the type of winding mechanism. As already mentioned, there are mechanical watches with manual winding and models with automatic winding. In hand-wound models, turning the crown turns a connected axle, which then tensions the spring in the barrel. The automatic movement is different: Here, a rotor whose center of gravity is outside the center of the watch performs this work. Whenever the watch is moved on the wearer's wrist, the rotor is set in motion and winds the spring, whereby the slipping clutch prevents overtensioning. In other words, the spring is not overloaded even if the automatic watch moves a lot.
The spring begins to relax during the periods when the automatic watch is not moving. The period of time between full winding and the watch coming to a standstill when the spring is completely relaxed is known as the power reserve. It indicates how long the watch will continue to run without being worn or manually wound.
The biggest advantage of the automatic watch is obvious: if you wear it regularly or keep it in a watch winder, you do not have to wind it. Hand-wound models, on the other hand, have an undeniable charm, remind collectors and enthusiasts nostalgically of earlier times and are particularly sought-after as collector's items.
Advantages and disadvantages of mechanical watches
In the watch industry, the movements with which watches are equipped continue to be a much-discussed topic. Quartz watches or mechanical watches - which timepieces are better? The answer: it depends on what is personally important to the wearer in a watch. Mechanical watches are considered to be extremely durable and reliable. With good care, a high-quality mechanical watch will remain the reliable time indicator it was when it was new, even after many years. However, rate deviations of a few minutes per month are not uncommon with mechanical watches, while quartz watches generally only have monthly deviations of up to 20 seconds. So when it comes to accuracy, quartz models have the edge.
Another advantage of the quartz watch is that it is lightweight and requires very little maintenance. Due to their more complex structure, mechanical watches require a little more attention and should be serviced at regular intervals. In addition, quartz watches are often a little cheaper to buy than mechanical watches. However, many watch fans agree that it is worth paying a higher price for mechanical models. The craftsmanship alone that goes into every mechanical movement justifies the price difference. Mechanical timepieces - whether automatic watches or hand-wound products - reflect the tradition of watchmaking and therefore exert an enormous fascination on watch enthusiasts with an affinity for technology.
The fact that mechanical watches work without batteries is also an advantage. As the owner, you don't have to think about changing the batteries or worry about the batteries running out if the watch is not worn for a long time. But you do have to keep winding in mind. If automatic watches are not worn or hand-wound models are not wound in time before the power reserve expires, they will stop and have to be reset.
Ultimately, both watches with quartz movements and mechanical timepieces have their own serious advantages and disadvantages. Consequently, before buying a new timepiece, watch enthusiasts should definitely look at the features of the different movements, make a comparison and consider what they personally value in a watch. Price-conscious buyers who are bothered by every second of rate deviation are more likely to opt for models with a quartz movement, while watch fans whose focus is on tradition, craftsmanship and aesthetics are well advised to go for a mechanical (automatic) watch.
Quality features and criteria for mechanical watches
Buyers should keep a few aspects in mind when purchasing mechanical (automatic) models to ensure that they choose a watch of the highest quality that meets their expectations. These “Top 5 purchase criteria” play a particularly important role:
Movement and complications: Are automatic watches or hand-wound models preferred? And what should the minimum power reserve be? In addition to these questions, buyers should also consider which complications (e.g. date, chronograph function or second time zone) their new watch should have.
Materials and workmanship: Do you specifically want a watch made of stainless steel, gold, titanium or even platinum? Each material should be carefully crafted, which you can generally rely on with models from major brands.
Design: Which watches stand out with their design? The preferred model should of course be visually appealing, but the design also influences the practical use of the watch. For example, you should find out whether the strap on the model in question can be replaced.
Watch brands: Is there a preferred watch brand, such as Rolex, Audemars Piguet, Tissot or Patek Philippe? Narrowing down the selection to models from specific manufacturers makes it much easier to find the ideal watch.
Price-performance ratio: Which price segment suits the available budget? We recommend paying attention not only to the price alone, but also to the price-performance ratio. With really good products, the price is not only convincing because it is as low as possible, but because you get good quality for your money.
The bigger the watch brand and the more the model falls into the “luxury” category, the more cautious prospective buyers should be with regard to authenticity and potential counterfeits. Among other things, they should be wary if an expensive model from a renowned brand is offered at a remarkably low price or without the corresponding papers. If you don't know much about checking the authenticity of watches yourself, you should seek professional advice when making a purchase or buy from a provider who can do this for you.
Popular brands and models of mechanical watches 2024
The market offers a colorful variety of mechanical watches. Especially in the upper price segment, buyers are confronted with a wide selection of high-quality (automatic) watches of the highest quality. We would like to take a closer look at some of the most popular and well-known mechanical luxury watches from successful brands below:
Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional
With a design based on the timepieces that accompanied the astronauts on the Apollo 11 mission, the Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional is a true icon of the watch world. Equipped with small seconds, chronograph hands and 30-minute and 12-hour counters, the watch is powered by the hand-wound Omega 3861 caliber and has a 50-hour power reserve.
Visually, the Moonwatch can be recognized at first glance by the red highlights on the dial and the characteristic tachymeter scale on the bezel. In addition to the classic stainless steel models with steel, leather or nylon straps, the extravagant bicolor versions with elegant gold elements on the dial and strap are also very popular.
Vacheron Constantin Patrimony hand-wound
The Patrimony watches from Vacheron Constantin are the dream come true of every watch lover with a penchant for traditional masterpieces with a discreetly classic design. Finely crafted leather straps meet a flat, circular case that frames a thoroughly elegant dial. The hand-wound caliber 1440 is fitted in the technically simplest version, while the more complicated versions with perpetual calendar and moon phase are made to tick by the automatic movement 1120/3 QP/1. The Patrimony thus caters to the wishes of customers with a penchant for manual winding as well as those who prefer automatic movements.
Hublot Big Bang One Click
Large visible screws, a striking case and a powerful, automatic caliber with a 50-hour power reserve on board: this is the Big Bang One Click from Hublot. The eye-catching automatic watch with a diameter of 33 or 39 millimetres appeals primarily to watch-loving ladies. This is probably partly due to the diamond-studded bezel, but also to the high-contrast design. This is because opposites meet in the Big Bang One Click. The sparkling gemstones and the satin-finished steel and gold stand in stark contrast to the solid case shape and the functional rubber strap. This may not be to everyone's taste, but one thing is certain: a Hublot Big Bang One Click model attracts everyone's attention.
Cartier Tank Must de Cartier
With its rectangular case and the Roman numerals on the no-frills dial, the Cartier Tank has long since become a legend. In the Must de Cartier version, which is available in three different sizes, a reliable automatic caliber brings the watch to life. If you take a closer look at this model, sooner or later the small date display at 6 o'clock will catch your eye. This is harmoniously integrated into the dial and enhances the timepiece without attracting attention. Available on a leather strap or with a bracelet made of precious metal, Cartier Tank Must de Cartier watches - whether new or vintage models - have a very special charm. This is certainly one reason why Cartier's famous watches stand the test of time and always seem to be on trend.
A. Lange & Söhne 1815
Would you like a watch with an extra dose of classic elegance? Then the A. Lange & Söhne 1815 collection is worth a closer look. The product line is all about tradition and its name refers to the year of birth of the brand's founder, Ferdinand Adolph Lange. The sense of tradition can be seen in the design of the elegant models, for example in the blued hands and the “Chemin de fer” minute track. The L051.1 mechanical movement also features traditional components, such as hand-engraved balance pistons and screwed gold chatons.
Ulysse Nardin Executive Diver X Skeleton
The Diver X Skeleton watches from the Ulysse Nardin brand are exciting reinterpretations of the traditional diver's watch, whose design showcases the courage to be extravagant that characterizes the manufacturer. The watch combines the sporty character of the Ulysse Nardin Diver with the technical inner workings of the Blast Skeleton.
The result is a solid titanium sports watch with automatic winding, 72-hour power reserve and an elaborate skeletonization that makes it an absolute eye-catcher.
NOMOS Glashütte Orion 33
Style-conscious ladies who want a delicate watch with a mechanical movement will find what they are looking for in the Orion 33 from NOMOS Glashütte. Thanks to the small case diameter of 33 centimeters and the delicate design, the watch with manual-winding caliber cuts a fine figure even on delicate wrists without appearing too bulky or heavy. In combination with the soft calfskin velour strap, the delicate cornflower blue hands and the wafer-thin indices on the cream-colored dial, the Orion 33 perfectly demonstrates that mechanical watches can also shine in soft, gentle designs.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute
Originally developed for polo players, the Reverso from Jaeger-LeCoultre has a very special feature: a reversible case. In the Tribute version, the watch presents itself in its usual luxurious style. The automatic watch for men and women stands out from the crowd with its rectangular dial, which leads to the bracelet in a harmonious gradation, and is optionally available with various complications. For example, there are chronograph models as well as models with small seconds and a calendar.
Panerai Luminor
The Panerai Luminor is a watch that combines precision, exceptionality and robustness. At the heart of the classic “Base” version with rubber strap is the automatic manufacture caliber P.6000, a 110-part movement with manual winding and a full three-day power reserve. The case and case back are made of stainless steel and frame a linear dial with luminous hands that emphasize the sporty character of the timepiece, which is water-resistant to 10 bar.
Hamilton American Classic Intra-Matic Chronograph
Anyone who is enthusiastic about sporty chronographs with automatic movements and is looking for high-quality entry-level watches should not miss out on the American Classic Intra-Matic watch from Hamilton. The model for men and women conceals a caliber H-31 underneath the attractive case - a chronograph caliber that is known for its reliability and accuracy. In addition to the chic steel or leather straps, the modern tachymeter scale and the skillfully placed date, the American Classic Intra-Matic scores with extremely fair prices that not every Swiss manufacturer can compete with.
Care and maintenance of mechanical watches
The fact is: mechanical watches require care in order to function reliably in the long term. It is advisable to have watches with mechanical (automatic) movements serviced every few years. This involves checking the caliber for any defects, which in the best case can then be rectified before they cause consequential damage. It is also advisable to wind the watches regularly. Automatic models are wound by wearing them or storing them in a watch winder, while timepieces with hand-wound calibers must be wound manually using the crown.
In terms of cleaning, the mechanical automatic watch differs only slightly from the quartz watch. As a rule, it is sufficient to wipe the watches occasionally with a soft cloth and to clean link bracelets with fine brushes or paintbrushes. Leather straps, on the other hand, benefit from special leather care products that keep them supple. To avoid scratches, timepieces should be stored on soft surfaces after wearing. Watch winders, textile-lined watch boxes and original boxes can be used for this purpose.
Investment potential and value retention of mechanical watches
Mechanical watches from renowned watch brands such as Rolex, Cartier, TAG Heuer, Patek Philippe, Tissot and Audemars Piguet are generally extremely stable in value on the market. This makes them an attractive investment option for investors. However, not every watch will necessarily increase in value and price just because it contains a mechanical (automatic) movement and is produced by a well-known brand. For this reason, it is always advisable to look at the past performance of specific models, make a comparison and seek expert advice if necessary.
One of the main factors that can influence the value of a watch over time is availability. Models that are offered in large numbers on the secondary market and can be purchased at virtually any time with just a few clicks are traded at a lower price in relation to the list price than watches that have a certain rarity value. For example, it can often be observed that watches change hands at higher prices when a watch brand ceases production or announces from the outset that the watch in question will only be produced in small numbers.
Of course, it is not only the watch itself, but also its condition that influences the price at which it can be resold. Timepieces that show signs of use in everyday life or that no longer have all their accessories and papers will not sell for the highest price. For this reason, it is worth taking good care of expensive products and keeping the associated documents and original box safe.
Buying advice and tips for purchasing a mechanical watch
High-quality watches from successful watch brands come at a price. That's why their purchase should be particularly well thought out. But how do you find the perfect mechanical watch? First of all, we would like to point out the important purchasing criteria and quality features that have already been discussed in detail in this article. In addition, details and small things also play a role with regard to the individual preferences of the buyer, which buyers can think about based on the following questions:
When will the watch be used (e.g. everyday, sports, office or special occasions) and what outfits should it go with?
Should the dial have a certain color?
Do you want a delicate, delicate or solid model?
Does the watch need to be waterproof?
What material should the strap be made of?
Do you prefer Roman or Arabic numerals?
Does decoration with precious stones or special cuts on the dial suit your personal style?
Knowing exactly what you are looking for is half the battle when buying a watch. The other half is getting quotes and making sure you buy from a reputable supplier. After all, it is generally known that there are definitely black sheep among watch dealers. If you are not buying the watch directly from the manufacturer, caution is advised. Counterfeits can be recognized by deviating information in the documents, inconsistent serial numbers and references as well as defects in the workmanship of the dial, case, hands and so on. If you want to be on the safe side, the most convenient way to find a new watch is through a proven supplier who conscientiously authenticates its watches. At HORANDO, we check the authenticity of every single watch in our range and thus reliably protect our customers from bad purchases.
Current trends and innovations in the field of mechanical watches
Even though mechanical movements are based on a long tradition, they are constantly changing. Every major watch brand - from Rolex and Omega to Audemars Piguet, Patek Philippe and Tissot - is constantly aiming to optimize its watches and striving for contemporary changes and further developments in terms of calibre and design. This also includes the development of new materials. Today, for example, Rolex manufactures bezels from Cerachrom, a scratch-resistant, color-fast ceramic material. The innovative further development of the escapement also comes from Rolex. The Chronergy escapement is characterized by its insensitivity to magnetic fields and achieves around 15 % higher efficiency.
Audemars Piguet has been at least as inventive in the recent past. The brand sometimes focused on flat cases and impressively demonstrated that great complications and slim designs are not mutually exclusive. The anniversary model of the Royal Oak presented in 2022 is equipped with the Caliber 2968 with flying tourbillon - a movement that measures just 3.4 millimetres in height.
Time and again, established and up-and-coming watch brands also dare to create watches with designs that clearly deviate from the standard. This is achieved, for example, by experimenting with different case shapes, the deliberate “displacement” of individual components on the dial or the implementation of concepts that initially sound quite adventurous. The U-Boat brand, for example, produces watches that are filled with oil under the glass so that a characteristic air bubble is always visible.
There is currently a cross-brand trend towards real colorfulness. Some watch brands are releasing new additions to well-known collections that stand out with colorful bracelets and bright or even patterned dials. Where once shades of white, black, grey, brown and silver predominated, more and more often there are color clashes in green, blue, red, pink, orange or yellow, which give the watches a modern, playful touch.
Style advice for mechanical watches
As fascinating as mechanical watches are on a technical level, for many people they are above all a piece of jewelry for the wrist that should complete their outfit in the best possible way and express their personal style. If you approach the purchase of a watch with precisely this intention, the occasion for which the watch is to be worn is particularly important.
If you mainly want to wear the luxury watch in the office and are usually dressed in a jacket and shirt, skirt and blouse or trouser suit, classic models - possibly with a date display as a practical feature - are ideal. Ladies, for example, choose the elegant Rolex Datejust and usually base their choice of case material on the materials used for the rest of their jewelry. However, it is currently becoming more and more popular to deliberately combine different precious metals. The old rule of thumb “gold to gold, silver to silver” is therefore no longer necessarily applicable. For example, the aforementioned stainless steel Datejust with a muted green dial can be worn wonderfully with delicate yellow gold bracelets or a gold ring that picks up on the dial color with an emerald or a rich green moldavite.
Men often wish to find a certain sporty nuance in their favorite watch even in everyday office life. This is precisely the case with numerous diver's watches and chronographs with mechanical movements. The best examples of watches that can be worn with a classic office look despite their sporty design are the Rolex Submariner, the Rolex GMT-Master II, the Tissot T-Sport or the Nautilus from Patek Philippe. If you are looking for a watch with a traditional look for special occasions, which undoubtedly deserves the title of status symbol, the Rolex Perpetual 1908, perhaps with a cognac-colored strap and shoes and belt in the same shade of leather, is an excellent choice. Ladies will find the Patek Philippe Gondolo with its diamond-set dial and pearl strap the ideal companion for grand entrances.
If the watch is mainly worn for sports and everyday wear, diamond-set and pearl watches are usually too much of a good thing. In this case, we recommend simple but no less chic mechanical timepieces that enhance the “casual look” without being too obtrusive. For women, the Rolex Oyster Perpetual or Yacht-Master models with a small case diameter are a good choice, while men can combine jeans and a T-shirt perfectly with the Hublot Classic Fusion, the Panerai Luminor or the Royal Oak from Audemars Piguet.
Ultimately, the choice of a mechanical watch is a very individual matter that should follow no boundaries or rules, but above all your own personal preferences and values. The world of watches invites you to try things out, reinvent yourself, perfect your own look with an exquisite watch and find out how the most beautiful facets of your own style can be emphasized and underlined by a perfectly chosen timepiece.
Conclusion
Mechanical watches do not require batteries, have complex, technically sophisticated movements and are fully in line with tradition and the impressive developments in watchmaking. Although they are often somewhat more expensive than quartz watches, they are also extremely durable and often prove to be extremely stable in value. Thanks to the wide variety of mechanical watches that characterize the product range of renowned brands such as Rolex, Hublot, Hamilton or Audemars Piguet, ladies and gentlemen with the most diverse tastes and ideas will get their money's worth.